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Subject Topic: Caravan Floor Delamination Kit
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Message posted by garynield on 14/5/2012 at 11:04pm
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Thanks fleetwood, I received 50 dowels with my kit. Did you just buy extra to fill your 70 holes? Thanks

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Message posted by fleetwood99 on 14/5/2012 at 11:14pm
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Got the resin from local caravan dealers so didnt get supplied any dowel,. just bought full length from timber merchant and cut up just what i needed. One thing is, when you inject the glue, move the floor up and down with the handle of a hammer or similar and you can see the glue moving down in the hole and to where its meant to be going, good luck.....

Message posted by michael on 15/5/2012 at 10:01am
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Quote: Originally posted by garynield on 14/5/2012
Thanks fleetwood, I received 50 dowels with my kit. Did you just buy extra to fill your 70 holes? Thanks
you can by a length of dowl and cut your own plugs if you need more,slightly pointed or it can damage your ply when knocking in.the part raised extra weight on this side of the join may lower it.if not just sand level.not forgetting its only 5 mm thick.

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Message posted by Big_Dan on 15/5/2012 at 11:56pm
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I have two areas of de-lamination - between the two bench seats at the front and inside the main entrance. So I finally got around to ripping the carpet up to see what I was facing. I found that the floor section in the middle of the van (by the sink area) had already had a delam repair, and this area is rock solid, so I was encouraged by this.

So I have ordered 2 bottles of the 'one-shot' resin, hoping that this is easier and less messy but will still do the job. I am intending on doing the job this weekend.

My main question is regarding bracing the floor from underneath and weighing the floor down from above once the resin has been injected.

Why is this necessary? I have read various instructions and guidance on-line and most include this in the instructions but some don't mention it at all. Has anyone done the repair without bracing the underneath and putting weights on top?? is it a must??

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Message posted by therigbys on 16/5/2012 at 7:18am
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They brace underneath and add weights to keep the floor level. I used the one shot and the instructions didn't mention bracing or weighting. Now that stuff expands!! In one area nice and flat and the other slight domed. Good stuff, but I would say, don't wait for it to come up out of the next hole, just so you see it reach the next hole, then plug. As I say it doubles in size at least!!

Possibly if doing again would brace and use weights.

Good luck - my floor is rock solid now.

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Regards
Karen

Message posted by cambridgecockne on 16/5/2012 at 7:45am
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I used kit one.bought dowels from b&q.drilled holes to suit.with the one shot it relies on moisture to activate it.i kept dowels in a bowl of water.squirted in glue pushed in wet dowel.it expands like expanding foam just sliced excess off with chisel next day.  floor been fine over 2 years now.


Message posted by michael on 16/5/2012 at 9:37am
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Why is this necessary? I have read various instructions and guidance on-line and most include this in the instructions but some don't mention it at all. Has anyone done the repair without bracing the underneath and putting weights on top?? is it a must??

two reasons why you brace from underside,first is you need to place heavy weights on the inside (spare tyres or gas bottles ) to compress the ply and foam together.which is what you are doing,gluing the ply and foam together.so the reason to brace is to stop the floor sagging from weight.second one is because the floor is moving when you walk on it filling each hole with the glue it can not take hold correctly as it is drying.i did warn not to overdo the braceing or damage can happen.

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Message posted by michael on 16/5/2012 at 9:42am
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Posted by Michael from UKcampsite

De-lamination.

Frightening? Not if you set out your stall and take your time.


This is not a two hour job as stated. When you have finished, you will know why they charge so much at the caravan repair shop.

I have just done my caravan a few months ago. The floor had gone in two places, next to the door entrance and next to the sink four feet away.

You will find that de-lamination is where the floor is used most .i.e. next to the sink and the door entrance.

First decide how much de-lamination you have, ie.2 feet (old school) or 6 feet, and check underside for gas pipes before starting..

This size of the de-lamination is required when you order your epoxy resin mix.

One mix will cover about 3 feet by 3 feet. I bought mine from Barrons - £25 for both tins.

You will also need a large syringe to inject the mixed epoxy resin. Barrons sell this also.

The glues are called Apollo 1 and Apollo 2 I think the code is A8136.

The small tin is the hardener and must be used in the time stated on the tin.

I will go through the steps best I can.

You will need:

A sharp 10mm drill

Some 10 mm round wood to cut and plug the holes, (sold in 6 foot lengths). This needs cutting into plugs, half inch long and sanded down at one end to make insertion easier

You need to:

Remove all carpets or lino.

Tape up all joints and the cowls under the caravan. Use a good tapeline brown 3” wide packing tape.
If you don’t the glue will run through the seams. (You will not know until you see a pool of glue on the path. So this is a must),

Support the floor under the van in some way so it cannot bend when pressure is placed on top.

Do not push up the floor. You can damage the fittings inside.

Use wood blocks stacked up just touching the floor on the underside in the same place as the
de-lamination.

.

Drill a test hole. Find a place that has no gas pipes on the underside.

Slowly drill one hole until it only just touches the plywood at the bottom. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH.

Tape up the drill at this depth, use plenty of tape to stop the drill going deeper than it should.

Mark out the area of de-lamination using a black marker, in a square grid pattern of 4 inch.

Drill to the grid pattern. When finished you will have a large square full of holes to the size of the
de-lamination. I.e.: 3 x 3 feet.

Clean away all and any dust or shavings.

Have a large polythene bag ready to put over the square; the glue does not stick to polythene.

You will need:


A tin or old pan large enough to hold the mix of glue.

A clean strong stick to stir the mix.

Only mix what you need within the time allowed.

Start at the rear end injecting the holes one by one until the glue flows out, then plug with the wood plug.

When finished, place the polythene bag over all the holes.

Put a heavy weight on top i.e. wheels and tyres or gas bottles. Leave for 24 hours to dry.

Open all windows to ventilate the caravan before starting the final tasks.

Protective clothing (masks and gloves) must be worn at this stage.

Sand down all plugs until smooth. Replace flooring.

Posted by Metz from UKcampsite

The delamination repair can be carried out from underneath, but you need to buy the complete kit which works out expensive if you only use it the once,
this is a description of the method I use for the repair of floor delamination.

Determine the extent of the damage from inside the van, transfer the information to the underside, drill a series of 8mm holes through the first layer of ply ONLY these should be centred at 200mm over the whole area, now drill 6mm pilot holes through the insulation until you just touch the upper ply NOT through, mix the 2 part adhesive carefully and load into caulking gun supplied with kit, the mixture will stay usable for about an hour, push the plastic probe into the hole until it touches the upper ply then pull it back a 1/4", pump the adhesive into the floor four or five pulls should do it you will feel the pressure build depending on the severity of the de-lam in that area, work your way across all the holes one line at a time, when injection is complete, place boards inside van and place weights on to apply an even pressure across the reworked area, place plugs into holes, and leave for 24/48 hours. DO NOT inject to close to original joins in the floor!!! Make sure you clean all equipment with the supplied solvent within the hour. The kit is available from www.theglue.co.uk .

You can also find delamination repair kits on ebay.

Here's how Brian Davies did the delamination repair step by step, with pictures Click_here .



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the only silly question is the one you do not ask.

Message posted by fleetwood99 on 16/5/2012 at 4:29pm
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Aquarolls filled with water make ideal weights and are there at hand

Message posted by Big_Dan on 16/5/2012 at 9:29pm
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Thanks - I hadn't realised that the one-shot resin expanded as it cures.

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Polygamy = Too many wives

Monogamy = Same thing!

Message posted by Jethroc on 07/6/2012 at 8:56pm
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Hi there  ----  been reding all your posts and info.   All very informative.    I have delamination in front of my cooker, so I'm going to have a go with all you posts to hand, but ----  there's always a but --- has anyone tackled delamination in a wall.

My outfit is a clean and tidy 1995 Bailey Pageant Champagne, and I've just discovered my wall inbetween the 2 windows are quite bad.

In my humble opinion it seems to me that if I use the same method as for a floor then the mix would run down the wall when being injected.

All suggestions welcome.   

Just come back from 3 weeks in South of France.    Will post review later.   Off to Wimbledon   --  staying at Crystal Palace --  start of July--- Ladies Semi final.   

Appreciate any replies   Ta very much.      Jethroc  .......P.S which one is the GREEN mix.

 


Message posted by agde on 07/6/2012 at 9:35pm
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hi. just been reading all the threads on delam...........

what i need to know is.....is there any pipes or wireing running inbetween the two sheets of ply...or do they all run under the van and on top of the floor  thanks



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Message posted by garynield on 07/6/2012 at 10:56pm
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Well I just wanted to thank you all for the great info. Have finished the floor and its nice and solid. With the new carpet down the caravan feels almost new, well as a 14 year old van can feel

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