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Subject Topic: Challenger 490/5 water heater problem Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by gee06 on 21/3/2011 at 9:24pm
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We've got a 'new to us' 1993 Swift Challenger 490/5 and we took it out and set it all up as a trial run before our 1st proper trip at Easter.

We managed to figure most things out and even got the porch awning up without too much bother!! What we can't figure out though is how to use the hot water heater. We put the pump on and got the cold working but couldn't get anything remotely even warm from the hot tap even after several hours. The gas was on to test the heating and cooker and we'd turned on the switch on the wall and the correct coloured lights were displayed but nothing happened. We couldn't find an electric or gas on switch situated at the heating unit itself so are at a loss to what the problem is.

After being campers I can cope with boiling a kettle for hot water if the unit is broken but wanted advice as to whether we'd missed anything silly!

Also, I need to get a new filter for the water system but as the old one looks a bit grimy is there a way I can disinfect the whole system or is it best not drink the water and used bottled like we did when tenting??

Sorry for all the questions!

Many Thanks

Gee

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Message posted by simon23 on 21/3/2011 at 11:11pm
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When you arrived at site and put your hook up on did you make sure the heater was off before? If not it has a sensor to stop overheating as for gas sorry can not help unsure if it stops this also working

Message posted by JimC on 22/3/2011 at 2:24pm
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There's a one way valve in the hot water system, can't remember exactly where, it's near the hot water tank, but we had the same problem when we had a 1994 challenger 490 and it was this valve.

                    Jim


Message posted by michael on 22/3/2011 at 5:14pm
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if you have the carver 2 heater read garys post.

The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have 'tripped' Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled 'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away.
Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.



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the only silly question is the one you do not ask.

Message posted by michael on 22/3/2011 at 5:17pm
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Also, I need to get a new filter for the water system but as the old one looks a bit grimy is there a way I can disinfect the whole system or is it best not drink the water and used bottled like we did when tenting??

i use milton for cleaning out the system or you could use puriclean.fill up system as normal.leave for one hour then flush out with clean.better if the filter is not in,or if old change filter after.

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the only silly question is the one you do not ask.

Message posted by michael on 22/3/2011 at 5:18pm
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Quote: Originally posted by michael on 22/3/2011
Also, I need to get a new filter for the water system but as the old one looks a bit grimy is there a way I can disinfect the whole system or is it best not drink the water and used bottled like we did when tenting??

i use milton for cleaning out the system or you could use puriclean.fill up system as normal.leave for one hour then flush out with clean.better if the filter is not in,or if old change filter after.
          www.cleantabs.co.uk/puriclean.htm

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the only silly question is the one you do not ask.

Message posted by gee06 on 25/3/2011 at 6:14pm
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Thank you for the messages!!

I'm going to have another look this weekend and see if I can figure it out armed with your answers.

Thanks again.

Gee

Message posted by snifferg on 25/3/2011 at 7:49pm
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Obvious question but the water heater had not tripped had it? - our 1992 490/5's water heater under the front bunk has a red button on the front of it, push this to reset the trip.

This happened to us not long after getting the van and it took me ages to figure it out, not being au fait with these things

Oops just noticed this was suggested in an earlier reply, sorry!

 



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