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Subject Topic: Rav4 towing electrics Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by MCN42 on 10/7/2014 at 6:53pm
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I have a 2005 3dr RAV 4 with an Indespension fitted tow bar and 2x7pin sockets.
The caravan is a 2001 Swift Challenger 400
When I plug in the caravan to the car and switch the fridge on, the charge indicator in the van starts flicking from its normal position to almost full scale and back...both relays, the one on the caravan bulkhead and in the charger /mcb unit cycle at the same rate, so obviously switching the car supply in and out.
So, the fridge won't chill and the battery won't charge....all other electrics are fine! any ideas out there?   John

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Message posted by G7ACU on 10/7/2014 at 6:58pm
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My initial instinct would be a poor/bad earth within the 12S. You could temporarily run a decent earth to check; have a look at the 12S wiring here.

How long ago was this fitted? Can you not go back to fitting dealer?

-------------
Paul

Every day's a school day!

Message posted by moorlander999 on 10/7/2014 at 7:03pm
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My 1998 RAV is the same...going to visit auto elec for check up.

Message posted by Rob and Tina on 10/7/2014 at 7:50pm
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Does this happen all the time or only when the car is on tickover?

Rob

Message posted by moorlander999 on 10/7/2014 at 7:54pm
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I can hear my relay for the 12s clicking on and off all the time, tick over or running....when I switch the 12v on in the van, I see the meter go from off to to full corresponding with the relay clicking on and off...

Message posted by Rob and Tina on 10/7/2014 at 8:01pm
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I think Paul is on the right track of suspecting a dodgy earth connection then. Might be worth checking and cleaning the earth connections before consulting the auto electrician.

Rob

Message posted by lady lou on 12/7/2014 at 12:22pm
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We put 2x leads from the main fuse board with 20A fuse on the live to the towing controller unit. Very easy to run the cables beneath the interior trim but difficult to go through existing bulk head grommets. This provided an appropriate lead rating for the live and a very good earth. Worth doing if you are planning on keeping the Rav4. I have since changed to Volvo XC60 D5.

Message posted by MCN42 on 13/7/2014 at 12:04am
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I think the idea of supplementary +\ - leads may be a way forward...2.5mm to the relay... In the meanwhile I am going to try friends known electrically sound tow vehicle on my van, should determine where the fault lies...also going to re-make the van 12s plug.. Hope it is the vehicle , then can get tow ball company to rectify as it is under warranty !... Fit for purpose!   John

Message posted by freeatlast on 13/7/2014 at 10:33am
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Don't understand this topic at all. "Supplementary leads" "We put 2x leads from the main fuse board with 20A fuse"

eh?

On a modern 13 pin/12N,12S system there should be three 2.5mm leads coming from the battery to the back of the car. Two with 15amp fuses to drive the caravan lights and the fridge, and one 20amp fuse for the battery charging/ATC connection. Easy to check, they should be connected directly to the battery, nowhere else. 50amps is a lot of current.

Sounds like another bodged towbar wiring job.

Message posted by MCN42 on 13/7/2014 at 11:03am
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it isn't a 13 pin system(see first post) it is specific to the rav 4... an odd problem that a few people seem to have had...possibly the vehicle wiring not being heavy enough to carry the fridge current load...resistance, voltage drop...ohms law!   hence relay will not stay latched.....

Message posted by freeatlast on 13/7/2014 at 12:23pm
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Twin 7 pin systems are the same as a 13 pin system electrically. Is it a manufacturers wiring kit or some other. As I said ALL 13 pin or twin 7 pin sockets should have about 50amps worth of fuses and sufficient cabling to carry that current. There is an ISO standard on it.

As I said above it sounds like a bodged towbar wiring issue. Check the towbar wiring fuses at the battery. They should be in the region of 45-50 amps total.

Message posted by Andy Higham on 13/7/2014 at 12:51pm
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Quote: Originally posted by freeatlast on 13/7/2014
Don't understand this topic at all. "Supplementary leads" "We put 2x leads from the main fuse board with 20A fuse"

eh?

On a modern 13 pin/12N,12S system there should be three 2.5mm leads coming from the battery to the back of the car. Two with 15amp fuses to drive the caravan lights and the fridge, and one 20amp fuse for the battery charging/ATC connection. Easy to check, they should be connected directly to the battery, nowhere else. 50amps is a lot of current.

Sounds like another bodged towbar wiring job.



There are actually 5 2.5mm cables
Pin 3 Road lights earth
Pin 9 Permanent 12v
Pin 10 Switched 12v Fridge supply
Pin 11 Earth for pin 10
Pin 12 Earth for pin 9
The supply on pin 9 charges the caravan battery when the fridge supply is energised

Message posted by freeatlast on 13/7/2014 at 5:30pm
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Sigh! Read my post again CAREFULLY. I said there should be 3 leads coming from the battery each 2.5mm or equivalent to the BACK OF THE CAR. The earthing is carried through the body of the car.

I was not talking about the wiring from the supplementary relays in the back of the car to the sockets.




Message posted by moorlander999 on 23/7/2014 at 10:21am
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Had the smart relay system replaced and rewired yesterday. There was no power to the 12s socket. 30 completed by EECO in Bradford.

Message posted by MCN42 on 23/7/2014 at 12:12pm
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Hello all..re. relays cycling in 'van when on car power and fridge on....... Prob resolved!!! the on car smart relay was the culprit... has been adjusted under load(pot on relay)...electrics now behaving!...fridge working on 12v , battery charging........ Relief!!

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