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Subject Topic: AL-KO hitch damper Post Reply Post New Topic
Message posted by denmau on 13/7/2014 at 11:42am
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Has anybody had to replace their kaput damper fitted to the al-ko stabilizer towing hitch??

I'm pretty sure mine has had it.

If anyone has tackaled this job, could you advise if there were any tricky bits/problems etc.

Did you replace the stabilizer pads inside the hitch at the same time??

advice and comments, and prices would be appreciated.

I have noticed the dampers on e-bay and they seem quite pricey for the size of them...

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Gerrrraway den!


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Message posted by Andy Higham on 13/7/2014 at 1:19pm
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Its a 20 minute job.
The only tricky(ish) part is you will need to cut a length of round bar the same diameter as the attachment bolts and the same length as the draw tube. I used a piece of wooden dowelling I had lying around.
1) Undo the 2 bolts securing the hitch and remove.
2) Undo and remove the bolt at the back of the draw tube, you can usually reach it from underneath the A frame
3) Pull the old damper out and feed the new one in
4) Replace the back bolt and tighten
5) Push the end of the damper until the holes lines up and push in your "dowel"
6) Replace the hitch and push the front bolt in, then push the rear bolt in, it will push your dowel out
7) Tighten all bolts
8) Make a brew, sit down and admire your work

Message posted by Grampian91 on 13/7/2014 at 5:24pm
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If you have nyloc nuts renew them or use threadlock to make sure they dont rattle loose.

The bar is 12mm diameter and 35mm long. I measure this for another member last week.



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Post 1997 licence holder?

Max tow weight = Cars gross laden weight + Caravans gross laden weight.

These 2 figures must not exceed 3500kg. And the Caravans gross laden weight must not exceed the cars UNLADEN weight.

Unless the manufacturer has set a lower limit.

Message posted by denmau on 13/7/2014 at 5:49pm
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ey yup!

sounds like my type of job. weather prevailing, because I live in a wind tunnel lol!

question: in note 3, pull the old damper out and feed the new on in.... what holds it, is it the bolts??

any thoughts on a reputable supplier??

a big thanks for the instructions and measurments guys.

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Gerrrraway den!


Message posted by Andy Higham on 13/7/2014 at 5:59pm
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The front of the damper is held by the rearmost hitch bolt, the back of the damper is held by the bolt at the back of the draw tube its usually vertical

Message posted by tedthebear on 13/7/2014 at 7:46pm
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To get the right damper you need the ETI number form the hitch head, remove the frame cover and stamped on the top of the A frame you should find a number such as     ETI 811011 that is the identifier for the damper

Message posted by denmau on 13/7/2014 at 11:21pm
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Magic guys, thanks a lot for the help.


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Gerrrraway den!


Message posted by denmau on 14/7/2014 at 12:11am
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Doh!..I forgot to ask,

do you need to remove the the jockey wheel, or support the A frame, or can the hich be removed without disturbing them??

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Gerrrraway den!


Message posted by tedthebear on 14/7/2014 at 1:20pm
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Jockey wheel can stay in place to support the caravan, don't forget to chock the wheels to stop any movement.

Message posted by denmau on 14/7/2014 at 4:52pm
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will do Ted thanks.

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Gerrrraway den!


Message posted by tedthebear on 14/7/2014 at 5:12pm
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http://www.westerntowing.co.uk/acatalog/Al_ko_Kober.html

some dampers here , also shows the ETi numbers for each type. You may be able to identify yours from this and possibly buy it cheaper elsewhere.

Message posted by denmau on 14/7/2014 at 10:46pm
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cheers ted!

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Gerrrraway den!


Message posted by danlebath on 13/3/2016 at 6:26pm
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20 min job? Erm.. not it the nuts are seized ;-) Make sure you have some WD40 to hand. You'll also need a Torx 55 socket for the 2 front bolts, and 19mm socket and spanner for the rear bolt. Make sure you don't loose any of the shims, tubes and washers. Time taken about 2 hours

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Keep Calm and create a tailback


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