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Subject Topic: Carver cascade 2 water heater help
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Message posted by mamf on 11/7/2005 at 6:07pm
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Does anyone know where I can get hold of an operating manual for this water heating system?....have know idea how the bloomin thing works and dont want too mess about with it and run the risk of breaking things.

Also, does anyone know a good caravan service/repair place in Cheshire area?


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Message posted by Teardrop on 11/7/2005 at 6:42pm
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Mamf

Blue and brown wires on control unit go to the battery, I cant remember which way round, but it does not matter! get it wrong and the green light doesnt come on, swap over and you are away. dont forget a fuse inline (zig unit or your own inline)

Gas supply is obvious.

Hot water is taken from the top hole be sure that this as the none return valve on it (built into the plastic nut)

Bottom is the cold water feed in.

Outside cowl, bottom left is a large plastic screw head this is a drainplug.

When switching on the green light should come on, if the gas ignites it will stay on.

If the battery is low the Green &Yellow light comes on, this happens at 10.5 Volts and if it does come on you should be hoping its a poor connection otherwise your battery is well poorly

If ignition as failed or subsequently blown out the green & redlight will be on.

If its a GE mains version too, that part is self explanatory normal mains wiring Brown Greeen/yellow and blue do not forget to add a switched fuse spur (caravan shop) or cheaper proper electrical retailer.

Anything I have missed, fire away. I have fitted one recently without a manual.

Have seen the manual years back, blue cover 10 Pages would be a pain to copy.

 


Message posted by Sprouty on 11/7/2005 at 7:29pm
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Message posted by mamf on 11/7/2005 at 7:48pm
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Sorry to sound really thick.....but, still none the wiser???

In the Van, on the electrics display panel there is a switch that says "Carver Cascade 2", with a green LED, when you flick it down. Then in the wardrobe the is a thermostat and a small brown box with a glider switch and three light displays, unsure if these are different colors as I haven't swithced it on, too scared!....also, under front bunk, there is what i assume is the water heater, has a polystyrene (sp?) insulation cover. The outside of the van there is a vent type thingy, same side as the water heater. Hope that I have explained this ok...anyway, What are they all and how do I make it work. Do I have to fill a tank with water our is water drawn from the aqua roll via the pump??....apoligies if I'm so stupid. All this is so new!


Message posted by Teardrop on 11/7/2005 at 8:03pm
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The up down switch is the water heater. operation is simple, switch on green ligh alone all is well, Green and Yellow means battery low, green and red Ignition failed or as blown out.

Water pump needs to be on, Aquaroll via pump feeds hot and cold system.

Slide switch  in cupboard, that sounds like a room heater. Truma or Carver radiator and blow heater?

 


Message posted by mamf on 11/7/2005 at 8:28pm
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Thanks teardrop....but, there is no yellow or red light display. There is however, a water indicator level, this has High, low level lights which are red and yellow????, you push in a black button and the led light accordingly.Does it take a while for the water to heat then?....

Message posted by michael on 11/7/2005 at 8:33pm
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hi see   www.caravanfaultfinder.co.uk for all problems and diagrams and cures also www.arcsystems.biz [:o)]

Post last edited on 11/07/2005 20:35:46

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Message posted by wizard9956 on 11/7/2005 at 8:40pm
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Hi Mamf , send me an email to this address bobanoba86 at hotmail.com  and i'll send you a scan of the manual .

atb

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Message posted by GeorgeT on 11/7/2005 at 9:09pm
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Mamf

RE your last post

That sounds like a tank water level gauge, but you mentioned aquaroll, so that doesnt (seem) to fit. Time to break out the digital camera and post some piccies I think.

The carver cascade 2 switch you mentioned as a chunky switch (and should have) 3 little light portals (best that I can describe!) which will light in the order and for reasons that have already been described earlier. If everythings working properly, all you will ever see is green.



Post last edited on 11/07/2005 21:14:51

Message posted by jennifernn on 11/7/2005 at 9:22pm
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These lights mentioned are for when using on gas, the square thing on the outside is the gas vent. You will feel heat coming from it if the water heater is working. Many also run on electricity (240V) , cheaper than using the gas. There will be a separate switch probably near the insulated water tank thing and mains type wires to it if it can be used on electricity.  It will take about 15/20 minutes to heat a tankfull, about 9 litres I think.

Message posted by nicholajayne1 on 11/7/2005 at 11:07pm
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Hi I am only a novice myself, but i will try to help, we went caravanning for the first time this weekend, and used our carver heater, if the green light comes on, on its own its fine its working, its a bit of trial and error, put your aqua roll on and run hot tap until water starts to come out, then  your heater should be full as well, make sure gas is on and you have switched your electrics over to the right supply then flick the switch, it should only be green, if any of the other lights come on as well turn it off then on again, i did and it worked, i think it has to ignite the gas, so if any other lights come on with the green it means its not worked that time so try again!!! hope that helps, oh and makes sense!!! i'm sure if i'm wrong someone will come and correct me soon!!!

Regards



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Message posted by wizard9956 on 11/7/2005 at 11:14pm
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Hi Mamf , you should have got my email by now , let me know if you didn't get it .

I split it into three parts as i didn't know if you were on dail-up .

atb

Wizard


Message posted by arc systems on 12/7/2005 at 12:31am
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Mamf has emailed me and I have replied with this..

Hi,

Below is an over view of generally how it works or you can download a manual here.

Hope it is of use and if you need any more help don’t hesitate to get back to me

Regards

Gary

 

The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.

To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it’s to show low voltage and won’t light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it ‘flash’ as the switch is turned on or off.

  The 240v emersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it’s “on”, not that it’s working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have “tripped” Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.

Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the “Burner Module”. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it’s a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled ‘fusible’ plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it’s control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak,  at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.

Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a ‘toggle’ showing that when turned a ¼ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away.

Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.

 


Message posted by mamf on 12/7/2005 at 8:19am
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A HUGE BIG MASSIVE THANKYOU TO YOU ALL......Thanks to wizard and Gary, have the handbook printed off and the general guide helped alot, fingers crossed!!

Message posted by hippy chick on 12/7/2005 at 8:34am
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Just had to post a comment on here because mamf you warmed the cockles of my heart! Now, like you, I'm not considered the technical member of our family - but hey girl - I understood everything you wrote!!!!

Don't you just find wizard so-o-o helpful? I love this site!!! Everyone is luverly and so forthcoming with their help and advice - it's GREAT! Caravanners and campers are such nice people.

Hope you've now got your water thingie sorted and ready to roll? Watch this space to see if I, too, am seeking similar advice in near future. New caravan has so many knobs and twiddly bits on, heaven knows how long we're going to take to get to grips with them all?

4 days to hols and counting.......


Message posted by Sprouty on 12/7/2005 at 10:39am
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FAO GARY

My carver 2 has a problem, the remote unit blows both fuses when connected to the main unit (using the Din type plug) You may recall I spoke to you many months ago (probably a year). The 240v works fine but gaas is a complete no no....

Can I replace the main unit (where the din plug is attached)? or will it require a person of your obvious skills and knowledge?

(I would even consider planning a week in Nottingham and visit my brothers in Beeston, to enable me to visit you!!)

(Spoke to Gary since putting this post on a true gentleman will try out his theories then give up and plan a trip to Nottingham !!!!!!! cos I am Bound to get it wrong)



Post last edited on 12/07/2005 10:50:46

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