Ive recently bought a Sunncamp Holiday 500 and am looking to add some fitted 240v sockets.
I intend to create a small ring main going back to a consumer unit, the wiring and such is easy enough for me, but i have a few questions for those in the know if you wouldnt mind?
Am i right in thinking i should be looking for IP65 as a minimum requirement for the consumer unit enclosure? Or should this not be an issue as it will be on the inside of the tent?
I already have some 16A commando trailing/extension leads, so i was wondering what is the recommended method of getting the power into the consumer unit? I am thinking along the lines of connecting one of these leads from the hookup point to an external commando socket on the exterior of the trailer. Is there a "recommended" commando socket that people use for such a purpose?
On most sites ive been to, its normally only a 10A/16A feed supplied at the hookup point, what rating RCD do people use for the main breaker?
From reading around the forums, I see that some people have added 12V systems to their setups, as a newbie to the TT world, is there much call for me to add this now for future usage?
An IP65 or 68 appliance inlet will sort your incoming power.
We have a small consumer unit with three MCB's, each rated at 6A, ours is a trailer rather than a folding camper, but the requirement is much the same. We feed two 13A sockets from one, microwave and TV socket, the fridge off another and the water heater off the third. We don't pull 13A for anything, so 6A MCB's are fine.
If the consumer unit is inside, then a standard unit is OK, make sure you have an RCD fitted, rated for 16A.
We do have 12V as well, mainly for audio/TV/Satellite receiver, lighting and we have an extraction fan in the kitchen cupboards. There are some nice 12V sockets made by Clipsal, look on ebay. Don't forget to fuse any wiring.
Most caravan inlets are rated at IP45, the same as the CEE plugs and sockets.
You really need to get a caravan type consumer unit as they have MCB's with double pole switching. It is usual to have 6amp for fridges and water heater and 10 amp for 13 amp socket supply. By nature the RCD is double pole.
Cabling around the camper must be in a minimum of 1.5mm flexible not twin and earth. However the cable from the inlet to the consumer unit must be 2.5mm flexible so I have used that size throughout.
Hope this helps
Bob
ps no need for a ring main, a radial system is ok because of fuse / wire sizes.
You need ip rated if water getting to the unit is an issue,but bear in mind you may install the unit in a dry place,but would it be subect to water if you have to wet pack?The ip rated d.b,s are probably a little more expensive.
You can use your ip rated leads to feed the d.b.The unit you fit for example to outside of the camper is not a socket(cammando) it is a fixed plug inverted.So your H.U lead has a plug on one end which you plug into the site supply and a socket on the other end which plugs into the plug fixed on the outside of your trailer (all commando type).The plug in turn then connects to the feed wherever you have fitted your d.b(consumer unit).You can buy these commando plus and sockets from any camping shop or electrical wholesalers .You would also need to run a 6mm min earth cable from the d.b and connect to the metal framework of the t.t ( it should have a sign electrical connection do not remove) This earths the frame.
A lot of people have 12v installed mainly to use for none hook up sites,plus the water pumps are usualy 12v the fridges usualy will run of 12v,mains and gas ,but if you use it on 12v it will drain your battery like you never know .The trouble with 12v is
1-the batteries are heavy
2-the batteries need care.if they are left without regulor charge and discharge they will die. (they are best left on a near perminent slow electronic charger)
3-a 12v fridge will soon flatten your battery and even a tv for a few days.
4-What happens when your battery goes flat?Not all sites will charge it and if they do you will have to pay,plus the charge will take all day .A rapid charge 1or 2 hours that garages have are not good for the batteries and can bend the plates.
12v is only ok as a back up or very short break.A lot of campers have a mains system with a built in charger to charge the batteries whilst on hook up and use it for awhile to keep the batteries in good condition. ie you can switch between mains and 12v.
I would concur with Bob's comments above on the mains side.
I'm afraid I can't agree with GCB that 12v is only for back up or short breaks though! Admittedly I've got a 110Ah battery but that would comfortably last me 2 weeks average usage if it was just the water pump and lighting. The only thing I have which uses and great amount of power is the fan on the gas blow air system - I don't bother with TVs and the like, everything else will run off gas.
I dont think i will need 12v just yet then, as i have no battery or 12v kit to power just yet. All we will need the 240v for is the beer fridge and various chargers, plus the small lcd tv we take with us.
Is there any reason why the cabling has to be flexible, rather than Twin&Earth? Is arctic ok in this instance?
I think seeing as the Consumer unit will be inside the storage boxes of the TT, then a standard one should be ok?
Can someone confirm my wiring diagram below looks ok? (dashed is potential future usage)
I understand about the socket actually being a fixed plug, due to the trailing lead having a potentially live plug otherwise. Can anyone point me at a suitable fixed plug, as my google-fu is failing me :)
52616 is the product code on the Screwfix website,Commando angled inlet (plug) 16A and artic cable is specially designed to taste bad to polar bears,(and is also not as tough at ambient temps as the proper hi viz orange flex.) Chop a couple of foot off your main lead and use that from the inlet to the CU. Don't forget to grommet any holes.
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Topic: Hopefully simple electrics questions
