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Subject Topic: Pennine folding camper
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19/8/2016 at 7:14pm
 Location: Co Durham
 Outfit: outwell
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Just got back from a camping trip, 90mile journey. We unhooked the trailer from the car, to move it onto the drive, and it was almost impossible to move.

The trailer is usually really easy to move with just two of us; however it was as if something was jammed. Eventually it seemed to free itself and move ok. Any ideas what could have jammed? Hand break was definitely off.

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19/8/2016 at 7:36pm
 Location: Lichfield
 Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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If the trailer has a hand brake then it obviously has brake shoes inside a brake drum which I would suggest that could be the problem. There are springs inside each drum to retract the brake shoes from the outer rim so it's possible that one of these springs have broken thus jamming then immediately releasing.
What you need is a basic chassis service but if you are confident of doing DIY tasks on brakes then it's an easy task if you know what you are doing. If it hasn't been serviced for a long time then the taper wheel bearings will most likely need removing, cleaned and re-greased as well.


19/8/2016 at 8:00pm
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: Trigano Chantilly
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I may be wrong about this; if so someone will correct me. But if you have a braked trailer, as the tow hitch compresses, doesn't it put the brakes on? If so then you need to decompress the tow hitch to release the brake? Sorry I am not technical enough to get much further.
Mel

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Nanamel


19/8/2016 at 8:03pm
 Location: Washington UK
 Outfit: Hymer+Eriba+Nova+485
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We're you pushing the trailer backwards? It's possible that you needed to release the overrun for the brakes. I found the easiest way to overcome this was to brake slowly so that the brakes on the trailer didn't engage fully. (If the concertina rubber is not compressed then the trailer bikes are not engaged). You should find that the trailer will reverse easily. If this does not work then try the advice given above.


19/8/2016 at 8:30pm
 Location: essex
 Outfit: Swift Challenger 570
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My guess is that when you reversed it put the brakes on the trailer, when you unhitched the brakes remained on due to lack of service then the damper slowly returned to its normal position. the hitch needs greasing there are 2 nipples on the top and one underneath usually set further back and is not always easy to spot once re greased all should be fine.
If the damper works as it should when brakes are on if you unhitch the damper will push out and theres a risk it will hit your bumper I avoid this by after reversing pull up trailer hand brake and gentle pull car forward a couple of inches before un hitching

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19/8/2016 at 8:34pm
 Location: Lichfield
 Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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Quote: Originally posted by Nannamel on 19/8/2016
I may be wrong about this; if so someone will correct me. But if you have a braked trailer, as the tow hitch compresses, doesn't it put the brakes on? If so then you need to decompress the tow hitch to release the brake? Sorry I am not technical enough to get much further.
Mel



No, it works the opposite way round. If the trailer has brakes that operate from the draw bar then when the draw bar is compressed (reverse) then the over-run mechanism is activated and more likely that the hand brake won't operate very effectively.
The hitch either has to be pulled forward manually or the trailer has to be pushed forward a few feet for the over-run mechanism to de-activate making the brake shoes operational again.



21/8/2016 at 8:20am
 Location: Co Durham
 Outfit: outwell
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Thanks for all the information. Going to organise a service on the trailer, so hopefully get to the bottom of the problem.

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