perhaps they should use a meter first to find out
you will have the same problem in "professionally" installed 3 phase ,do you renew every scrap of the old version or mark the ends with the new colour ,i suspect the latter is the case.
some newbie sparks comes round and fries himself because his training only showed the new colours or he's on the phone trying to find out what the old colours were.
next year possibly its all change again etc.
not for safety (having the same colours for ever is safe ) but simply to ensure bits of paper are needed showing the chappie knows the new colour or the cheap foreign sparks undercutting him lives longer because its a euro colour that he recognises ,the outside is immaterial because the foreign chappy wont recognise the old colours anyway.
if the sparks says its illegal as an excuse to not use new colours in an old colour installation then its nothing more than a ploy to completely rewire whatever it is ,you want a new socket and it costs you a fortune ,nice earner.
its still just as safe as it was using new colours in an old installation but of course its not so profitable
shortcircuit
thanks for advice. I was a maintainence medical electronics engineer for nearly forty years having responsibility for life support equipment and all types of medical equipment so I know what some of them are saying is not correct but everbody has there own ideas But to just repeat my original query has anybody actually fitted a extra socket and if so where did they route the cable ?.
again thanks shortcircuit for the advice
Yes i have, on both my vans, i must have been fortunate as where i wanted them fitting was a simple wireing run through bottom lockers & cupboard backs
Just had a look under mine & looks easy enough job to run under van, If i took a live feed (twin & skin) from the consumer unit, then back out through the grommet on floor (point where ALL my wires come in) straight run to rear of van well protected by ALCO chassis so no chance of fouling then hole in floor (grommet) & back in mount socket, connect into consumer unit job done.
mick
no doubt you purists will hang me yet again for my comments, but before you do tell me it wont work
No, I won't hang you, but I would offer my own comments. If anybody wants to run a cable under the van, if it is well protected, use a three core flexible, not a twin and earth. There is less risk of damage due to vibration, and better resistance to damage. Twin and earth is fine for static locations, such as a house, but you would be better with a cable similar to a hook up for wiring new sockets.
If you are putting in a new socket, without knowing the size of your current wiring, it is probably safer to wire from the breakers, rather than continue from an existing socket. If you can calculate the maximum current that wil be drawn, and the wiring from the breakers to the existing sockets is rated above this, continue on from the existing sockets if the wiring is easier.
Heppy, I apologise for getting off topic with your question, but while you know what you are doing, this post may be used with future searches and my quoting of regs, boring though it may be to some, may be helpful to someone else,.
I have wired sockets in my van, but I could run through the base of cupboards, and kept to the same side as the distribution box, so it wasn't a hard task, and probably won't help you with your answer.
Mikey72 Apologies not necessary, just did not think a simple question would lead to such a lively post
silverwood
the way that this Autosleeper is built I think I will have to go underneath the van as the circuit breakers are at one side and I would like the socket at other side
well like i said in my earlier post if you use common sense and logic and you are competent enough to do the job it,s no hassle.
I do think that some of us explain things a little different than actually mean but i am sure the noone means to make a thread explosive , after all that,s not what the forum is about is it.
I am quite technically minded but i know my limitations and that is as far as i would go.
So i would explore all the avenues and if i was uncomfortable with any aspect that,s when i call in the experts and that would be my advice to you heppy.
L
------------- you may be frustrated now but infront of me there is a big incline . yeh it may be slow but it is in front
At last we got an answer to the question the answer is YES
So just to recap Heppy
Use suitable wire (hook up type) run cable in conduit & if through metal, use grommets so no chaffing. Keep it neat & tidy, Bobs your uncle Fannys your aunt as they say up here
For me i'd still be tempted to spur off the back of an exsisting socket on the same side of van
Delboy you sure you didn't go to the same school as me? you sound like my kinda bloke we must of had the same teacher
Hi all
thanks for all the advice given, and my, don't we have a lively forum ? I will have another go at trying to find a route from an existing socket but there are an awful lot of obstacles in the way and the run would probably be no more than 6 feet in length
thanks again
well silverwood as i say it,s logic isnt it no your limitations and work within them not above them . But more than anything else always make sure that what you do can be undone and redone and is always safe and secure .
I always use what i term as the naf off syndrome never assume find out first and if that means a week of research well so what , that,s part of the fun and good experience in fault finding and additional extra,s etc.
Well as i say it works for me.
Heppy i would invest in a set of cable routers they are made of fibre glass about 4/5 mm thick 300 long and screw together you can tape your cable to them and push the router behind cupboards etc i use them regularly in my everyday job and they do save me a lot of time and cut figers etc .
------------- you may be frustrated now but infront of me there is a big incline . yeh it may be slow but it is in front
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Topic: fitting extra 240v socket
