Your web site was excellent, how long did it take you to convert your van?You seem to be people after our own heart, we to live a very isolated life, not complaining, exactly the opposite, we love it, but like you we cannot stand crowds. Our nearest neighbours are half a mile away, and we are about 1/4 mile off any sort of road, and thats only a very narrow lane. So I think we will be doing a lot of wild camping, as we are driving around now, we are on the lookout for sites.
I converted a talbot express long wheel base panel vanabout 15 years ago.
First thing you need to do is go and look at as many vans as possible to get an idea of how you want the inside of the van to look. take a tape mesure with you and make notes of everything in the vans, ie cupboards, beds,toilet enclosures, tables etc. Do this for as many vans as you can and where possible take photos to remind you later of the things you like. The salesman will get the hump with you but thats life.
Once you've got your plan drawn up on graph paper, COST the conversion. It may not be as cost effective as you think. It may be cheaper and less heartache buying a ready made van that just needs updating.
Ok you've costed it and the price looks good.
I used normal car windows in the side of my conversion ( Non opening ).
You can buy new or get them from a breakers yard. To fit them make up a template and use a jig saw to cut the holes in the side of the van. Fit your rubber seals and then put the gl;ass in. Cut the hole for your roof light and mastic /bolt or screw into position.
For the insulation on the walls & ceiling, i used 1 inch polystirene sheets from Wickes.
I covered the insulation with 3/8 plywood secured with self tapping screws to the struts on the inside of the van.
I cant remember the thickness of insulation i put on the floor before i covered it with ply. Anyway the floor was again secured using self tappers.
Before i forget, you need to insulate the back doors if youve got any. Use the polystyrene and cover with hardboard secured with pop rivets.
I could, and will go on if you want me to BUT
it's 5pm and time i wasn't here.
If you want anymore advice just ask and i'll do my best to help
For the info. We have done the looking, making drawings stage.We have made our own swivel seat bases. Now we are on the windows, got double glazed with blinds, then onto the insulation, we have decided to use fibre glass, and moisture resistant 6mm MDF.
All sounds expensive I know, but we will only get this chance once, as we are passed middle age, and want to use it for holidays, as well as carrying motor bikes which we competer with.
But thanks again, and anything you can think of, just let us know.
Just a thought about your choice of "moisture resistant 6mm MDF" for lining. I suspect that you could save some money, weight and possibly some heat loss by using something else. Even at 6mm mdf is quite heavy, esp the water-resistant, and used to be extremely expensive. I also suspect that it is not a particularly good thermal insulation.
Just thinking aloud here, no figures to back it up.
Water resistant mdf is not much more expensive than ordinary, and for the partitions we are using 12mm mdf, but they ,make ultra light now so that will lower the weight.
From experience, I would avoid as it doesn’t hold its shape well, far better off with plywood and laminate it in a covering of your choice, or varnish it.
For the roof I used some thin (prob about 2mm) vacuum formable white plastic which is normally used to make plastic house front doors. Stuck it up with EvilStik direct on to the insulation.
A day of all things motorhome and campervan. The show is held both in the main indoor arena and across the grounds. Catering, hot drinks and food options are available. Easy access to the site and free parking included. Win one of five pairs of day tickets
Topic: Converting a panel van
and ee's an off roader too! I bet it was with the adwc.
