So, first weekend away in the 'new' camper and it certainly answered a few questions I had.
Fridge DOES run on gas and hook up but sadly not on 12v when driving :-( Any suggestions on where to start looking to resolve this?
Need a couple more 12v lights. Easy enough.
However, the hob is, possibly, past its best. One of the rings, although functioning, is not properly attached to the hob itself. No gas leaks fortunately but is pretty useless.
Any suggestions for replacing the combined hob/sink?
I have looked online but not having much luck finding a 1000mm long hob/sink combination :-(
Have you got a multimeter? If not a small 12V bulb soldered to a couple of leads will do. Check obvious things - is the fridge switched to 12V? Are there any other switches in the circuit? Are the fuses OK?
Not sure if all fridges have a thermostat on 12V, but check this too.
Check if 12V is getting to the fridge. If you have a multimeter, you could check the resistance of the 12V element - disconnect the 12V feed first.
If not check back to the fridge relay. Is the 12V feed to the relay from the starter battery / alternator OK? When the engine is running, is the relay energised?
It should hopefully be straightforward to isolate the fault.
------------- Two drifters off to see the world.
I'm tired of reality, so I'm off to look for a good fantasy.
I went through the 12v system as far as possible with the time I had to find that there appears to be a big reduction in power to the kitchen!
There are two 'resistors' in two cables coming from the live feed from the battery taking the voltage down to 5.5v which isn't enough to run the submersible pump to the sink.
However, there is power enough to the bathroom submersible pump.
The only thing that the 12v system runs is 3 lights, two submersible pumps and the fridge.
Tomorrow I am going to have to take the fridge out as I cannot check if power is getting to the fridge from the inspection hatches :-(
Question is, does there really need to be 'resistors'(?) in the 12v system for such a basic/simple system?
No, there should not be any resistors anywhere in the circuit. I'm wondering if what you see are in-line fuse holders or sealed crimp connectors. If you have 12V at one side of a "resistor" and 5.5 at the other, I would suspect that. Sounds like a duff fuse / bad connection or break in a cable. I would pursue this before you took the fridge out.
------------- Two drifters off to see the world.
I'm tired of reality, so I'm off to look for a good fantasy.
I was surprised to see the two 'resistors'. They are definitely not inline fuses and I don't think they are crimp connectors but will double check tomorrow.
I am planning to 'jump' the 'resistors' tomorrow and see if I get an increase in volts in the kitchen.
I also want to check for damaged cables but would have through that the volts would vary with broken/damaged cables. The voltage is set at 5.5v without variation.
Thanks again Capt.! Very much appreciate your help!
Well, 'resistors' removed, basically cut out the two odd, black looking things on the two live feeds, reconnected the wire and...
I HAVE POWER!!!
When I bought the motorhome I was told that the kitchen tap didn't work and probably needed replacing. Well, I am no electrical genius but even I know that wiring the live and neutral together in a single block, without any power, will never make the micro switch work!!!
Anyways, as there was limited feed it was never going to work. 15 minutes chopping out the 'resistors' (I really have no idea what they are/were), checking that there is now 12v arriving at the kitchen and then 15 mins wiring the tap correctly and we have running water!!
Now just need to check that this also resolves the fridge running on 12v issue and we are peachy! Will have to wait until the weekend to test this on a decent drive I guess.
So, Capt. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! For all your help on this one!!! I think you saved me a ton of frustration and work!
More fiddling and faffing about and fridge is taking a draw from the leisure battery when switched to 12v WITHOUT the engine running!
Not going to leave it on as don't want to kill the aged battery so need to take a drive out at the weekend to check properly but the fact that its drawing from the battery when connected has got to be a good sign
What sort of fridge do you have? If it's a compressor fridge, you will be OK running from the leisure battery, BUT if it's an absorption fridge (ie gas / electric) it should only run from the starter battery / alternator via a relay. The relay is activated either from the 'ignition' light or is a voltage sensing relay.
The exception is that a gas fridge might have electronic ignition and that bit does run from the leisure battery, but takes very little power.
------------- Two drifters off to see the world.
I'm tired of reality, so I'm off to look for a good fantasy.
Is an absorption fridge and, to be honest, I was surprised to see it drawing power from the leisure battery without the engine running.
The camper is 1983 and the fridge looks original so no electronic ignition there.
One thing I did learn yesterday, the leisure battery to starter battery has a manual 'key' connection, not electronic an, if the 'key' is left in it will draw from both batteries. I need to remember that one!
Whatever, you have been a great help Capt! Thank you!!
Ah, I had that arrangement on my old Dormobile 'Deauville', although it didn't have a fridge. We'll you could get away with it if you always remembered to switch the fridge off when parked, but I would recommend fitting a split charge / fridge relay.
I've seen relays on Amazon for under £5 that would be suitable.
------------- Two drifters off to see the world.
I'm tired of reality, so I'm off to look for a good fantasy.
Changing the manual 'key' for a split charger was a thought I had yesterday. I just KNOW that I will forget to disconnect the 'key' occasionally and wake up in the morning with a flat battery!
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