hi ive got a l200 with single eletrics and want to put second electric on so it will charge my battery on my caravan while driving and keep fridge cool etc anyone know how to do it?????
The 12S is the easy one to do. You can get a relay that you mount at the back and just run one wire from the battery to it then wire the socket to the relay.
This is incorrect, you need more than one wire, the relay needs to sense when the engine is running. When I had a Mitsubishi Outlander, the 12S wiring was quite strange, so I would suggest you buy the proper l200 12S loom from your Mitsubishi dealer. My Outlander took the sensing lead from a plug on the wiper motor. The usual "pictures only instructions" took a bit of following, but otherwise it was quite straightforward. I would not bother asking the dealer for help, my dealer (as most do) outsource the fitting of towbars so they had no knowledge of the wiring for the 12S plug.
The sensing lead should be taken from the alternator so that it only switches power once the engine is running and not when the ignition is turned on as it will do if connected to anything else like the wiper motor. Connecting it to anything which is ignition fed isn't right. If your car battery were to go flat when hitched up you would then be trying to draw full starting current from the leisure battery through the thin sensing wire to the accessory you connected to when you try and crank.
You can do it by running just one wire to the front. It is not incorrect as stated above because you can get 'auto-sensing' relays which only need the main power feed and no sensing wire.
The sensing lead should be taken from the alternator so that it only switches power once the engine is running and not when the ignition is turned on as it will do if connected to anything else like the wiper motor. Connecting it to anything which is ignition fed isn't right. If your car battery were to go flat when hitched up you would then be trying to draw full starting current from the leisure battery through the thin sensing wire to the accessory you connected to when you try and crank.
You can do it by running just one wire to the front. It is not incorrect as stated above because you can get 'auto-sensing' relays which only need the main power feed and no sensing wire.
Post last edited on 08/01/2010 11:53:00
This was the "official" way for the Mitsubishi using a genuine Mitsubishi 12S lead set and their instructions. I do know what I am doing, and yes the relay only switched on when when the engine was running. However, I bow to your experience as you obviously know more about the electrical system of the Mitsubishi Outlander than the designers at Mitsubishi do.
One of the functions of the 12s socket is a direct feed from the car battery to the van, so you can use the car battery instead of the van. This needs a live feed of fairly hefty cable via a line fuse.
If a relay is used, I accept that one sense wire is needed, but you still require a live heavy duty feed to supply the relay contacts. The relay generally serves for the fridge and battery charging. Commonsense dictates that a line fuse is fitted too.
The 12S also supplies reverse lights and the Al-Ko trailor stability device fitted to many recent caravans.
On our Bailey (13 pin plug) you can hear it powering up when you connect. The LED on the A frame also lights up.
( We use a 2 socket to 13 pin adaptor as our dealer gave it to us!)
A relay is simply a device that uses a light current to switch one or more heavier currents.It is a remote switching device.
For example when you start your car, the ignition switch uses a relaitvely small current to switch a very heavy current ( many amps on a cold day!) .
Wihout a relay the switch itself would have to be of very heavy construction to avoid premature burn out- to say nothing of arcing etc!
I have wired several car towbars in the past, but have to admit to paying for it to be done of late! ( Mainly because we have had company cars- or as for our new Sorento- where the warranty needs to be considered!)
I think I know a little about electronics- being an ex RAF Avionics tech (24 years working on rather complex and expensive kit!)-who now teaches in a college!
Post last edited on 08/01/2010 20:25:28
Post last edited on 08/01/2010 20:29:09
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The relay is voltage sensitive. When the engine is running the voltage is higher than when it is not. This difference operates the relay. Itss a lot easier than running an additional cable to the alternator.
I have wired several car towbars in the past, but have to admit to paying for it to be done of late! ( Mainly because we have had company cars- or as for our new Sorento- where the warranty needs to be considered!)
I think I know a little about electronics- being an ex RAF Avionics tech (24 years working on rather complex and expensive kit!)-who now teaches in a college!
Post last edited on 08/01/2010 20:25:28
Post last edited on 08/01/2010 20:29:09
I always fit my own towbars and the electrics, and I always check with the garage, it does not invalidate the warranty. Indeed when Vauxhall replaced a "Friday" Vectra for me FOC, they fitted a new towbar as part of the replacement package knowing full well I had fitted the original one myself.
The voltage sensing relay is normaly used now. The relay monitors the voltage and only provides power to the fridge & caravan battery when the voltage is at a level commensurate with the car battery being charged. This usually occurs about 30 seconds after the engine has been started and also for about 30 seconds after the engine has stopped.
Relays with a sensing connection to the alternator used to be used, but have been largely superseded by the voltage sensing type.
I hope you don't mind me adding my query to this thread since it does concern relays. I did post it on another electrics thread and then saw that one was a bit cold (07)
I want to fit a towbar on my 02 Ford Focus Zetech Hatch 1.8 and have identified a kit (Towtrust) and single electrics for a reasonable price. However, I am unsure as to whether I need to fit a relay, I am only intending using it for towng a medium sized trailor. I think not, but would appreciate confirmation of this and also if Towtrust is a reasonable make (if one is allowed to quote "preferences" on this forum).
I've added 12S to few cars. The Towsure kit is good, cheap & has full instructions. It also comes with the socket pre-wired which saves some hassle. It really is an easy job to do. hardest part is getting through the trim & dash etc, to the battery.
The Split charge will need a feed straight from the battery as it charges the fridge. The relay senses when the battery is being charged & only switches when the engine is running. Run two wires if its a big fridge, otherwise . I've always fitted it direct to the battery with an in-line fuse holder. Needs to be a decent fuse. (30a ?)
And to last question...the relays being referred to above are for the 12S socket, the grey one. You'll probably see reference to a "7-way By-Pass relay" when looking for your tow-bar...you don't have to have one. You can fit one if you like, it wont hurt. They are designed to lessen the load on the cars circuits when the caravans lights are connected. It basically takes its own feed from the battery, then routes it to the caravans lights as it senses the corresponding signal from the car.
You'll be wiring in a 12N for lights etc. Might have the wire colours for tapping in in a Ford Dealers CD manual.
Will have a look for you.
For Emby60...
Focus 02' Hatch 3/5d Wiring for 12N
Connect to the following on the car...
LH Indicator...BLUE
RH Indicator...BLUE with RED stripe
LH Brake Light...GREEN with RED stripe
RH Brake Light...GREEN with BLACK stripe
LH Tail Light...ORANGE with WHITE stripe
RH Tail Light...ORANGE
Reversing Light...GREEN with YELLOW stripe
Fog Light...GREEN with YELLOW (trace to lamp)
Number Plate...ORANGE with BLACK stripe
CD Manual I have is very good, covers all Fords.
Drop me an email if you want a copy.
Hi Malcolm. I've had several towbars from towtrust and they've been fine. Like you, I use mine for my camping trailer and never had any problems. Fitting instructions are fine too. You can check on their website for fitting instructions just to check there are no problems. You would normally need two people, if only to provide support while you fit bolts etc, or to hold a spanner in the boot while you're under the car but the other doesn't need a degree in automotive engineering, just a strong arm. Mine have been their own and came complete with all fixings, towball and wiring kit. This normally includes a small unit which goes in the back of the car and feeds the indicators. All it does is provide the legally needed tell-tale (a bleeping sound) the indicators are working.
run a direct live supply from from battery 23 amp or more fused at battery (do not tap into the alternater or other wires)this can coures problems in soom cases,get the parts u need from www.a1-tow.com with a self switching relay towbarbob
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