We have only used the frontier for short bursts so have not yet had to deal with an ash build up, will cross that bridge when it comes, had no problem fitting the silicon ring and have intense rain (and thunder and lightning) with no leakage.
When the stove and flu pipe are not installed in the tent we do have a novel cover for the hole. I did think about fitting some sort of canvas flap but before I figured out how to do it I discovered that one of our plastic beakers fits perfectly over the silicon 'cone' with a little pressure it pings in a bit like the bungs on blow up stuff and provides a good weather seal.
Have a stove in the Tepee and got it with the item.
Don't know how prices stack up with other options but figured that a 'made for the job' stove was probably better than any 'bodge' job I could knock up. . . . . .
. . . . . . also, of course, if it's 'made to measure' then, almost by definition, it's got to be safe for the job etc.
Got it here . . . .
http://www.tamarackgroup.co.uk/acatalog/Wood_Burning.html
Kept me snug and warm at minus 25 and several foot of snow.
Quote: Originally posted by nicmalone on 05/8/2012
Hi
I'm thinking of getting a wood burner for our bell tent but was wondering if the canvas gets covered in soot? Our narrow boat roof certainly does.
Yes they do not as much as a narrow boat stove though . Depends on what you burn do you clean the chimney and is the spark arrester good enough .
Quote: Originally posted by nicmalone on 05/8/2012
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Hi,
I'm thinking of getting a wood burner for our bell tent but was wondering if the canvas gets covered in soot? Our narrow boat roof certainly does.
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Never had a problem with ours: Unlike a narrow boat the chimney height is not restricted. Narrow boats' chimneys are very short and low to the roof - the chimney on the wood burner in the tent is not. Also, the chimney on a narrow boat won't necessarily have a spark arrester in the top, whereas in a tent or tepee you really should have - and it's amazing how much of the soot is stopped by it!
In windy conditions I found that a few spots of tarry stuff were blown onto my tent from the top of the flue. I made more of a mess though trying to dismantle the flue and getting grubby fingerprints onto the canvas from handling the sooty sections of pipe.
Quote from armchaircamper on 06/8/2012 at 8:57am
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In windy conditions I found that a few spots of tarry stuff were blown onto my tent from the top of the flue. I made more of a mess though trying to dismantle the flue and getting grubby fingerprints onto the canvas from handling the sooty sections of pipe.
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Must admit to never having had that problem probably because the flue comes out from the centre top of the tepee and, as a result, extends a good 18" to two foot beyond the top of the tepee itself. With this layout you would have to be exceptionally unlucky to have soot etc blown back onto the tent.
With the flue situated below the uppermost of the tent then logically, yes, you could find soot and tar being blown back onto the tent body.
So - it's all about where the flue exit is situated in relation to the top of the tent.
With Pipsqueak stove, the flue comes out from outside of the wall of the Bell tent (no rain coming) and extends two meters above the horizontal flue.
So top of flue is about 2.5m which is 10cm higher than top of Bell and its horizontal distance from the top of Bell is 2.4m. No tar upon canvas.
My two years experience: Pipsqueak cast iron makes very hot stove (at times, I can't approach hand closer than 15cm at sides or above) during longer time (after the stove is "off" or on the way to be dead) than the steel ones I experienced (happily since fire works mainly "on" which is not far from maximum, since the tiny place where to burn tiny logs!), and that's important for evenings inside the Bell (cooking, toileting... and going to bed when fire is dead). It gives hot water very quickly, and without the cast iron round top plate cooking upon it is very quick too with direct flames (eggs and tomatoes!)
During winter, inside the house with very good insulated chimney, I usually get the Pipsqueak stove still running after 3 hours with very good dry wooden logs and then can feed it again; I can have the stove running slowly.
Inside Bell tent, I need to feed it each hour (good dry small logs I can collect around the camping place) and prefer not to have the stove running slowly or only a short time and not on evenings!
In my Bell tent with the Pipsqueak stove, better to get the fire going to bed before I'm going to bed: I experienced awaking in the night with fumes inside the tent (it was raining, wind changing...); so I run the fire "on" or "off", no slow running!
Regarding the horizontal flue I need to be able to controle it and clean it when necessary, easily dismanteling the connection with vertical flue by moving stove towards center of Bell; once, after two days raining and fire going too much slowly, I got the tar building up inside the outer part of horizontal flue making fumes going the wrong way (and once fumes went inside during the night, very-very dangerous, I'm still alive)... But with fire running "on" (not slow) I never experienced tar there.
I choosed the 4m Bell for warmer climate inside in the mountain, so choosed one sided fitted stove (not much place inside!)
Sure the vertical flue would need less tar cleaning inside the pipe, and allow for some slow running fire.
Excuse for my bad English.
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Topic: Which woodburner??
