Hi, when using fabsil to waterproof is it best to brush on or spray on with a plant spray bottle, also can you do both inside and outside? Any comments much apreciated.
We've only ever waterproofed our canvas tent. You shouldn't need to put Fabsil on your Montana. If it's leaking you should take it back. On our canvas tent, we paint the Fabsil on with a brush. We only ever waterproofed the outside because the Fabsil soaks right through into the canvas anyway.
We used spray to do our T/T and only the outside. our tent does not need doing for at least the first 5 yrs.
------------- Brown's
{As told to me by a friend.} Man's best friend is the dog, but a women's is the bunny Smile and the world smiles with you, we hope!!
i use a sprayer with a lance on our frame tent(those used in gardening) using the lance you can reach the apex of the roof (from a step ladder or lowering one side),i go along the seams first with a coarse jet then using a slightly finer jet the panel within the seam and over the seam again.
work from the top down till the panel is complete then rub it over with a j cloth on a broom or mop or by hand if you can reach .
most important is the seams as thats where all the stitching is and dont use too fine a jet! get the canvas wet! on the adjoining panel go over the already done seam once more all the way round.
starting from the top means that the liquid creeps down and makes sure the bottom of the tent get really wet a good idea as this is where the water runs to and ground splashes jump up to.
the biggest mistake is not using enough youl end up redoing it very quickly .
we used 12.5 litres on a 4.4 x 4.4 mtr tent it loved it and not one drop hit the ground
using one of those finger powered pump sprayers as the camping shop recomended would have ended up with a trigger finger muscles thicker than my arm
Quote: Originally posted by chesters4 on 15/8/2006
i use a sprayer with a lance on our frame tent(those used in gardening) using the lance you can reach the apex of the roof (from a step ladder or lowering one side),i go along the seams first with a coarse jet then using a slightly finer jet the panel within the seam and over the seam again. work from the top down till the panel is complete then rub it over with a j cloth on a broom or mop or by hand if you can reach . most important is the seams as thats where all the stitching is and dont use too fine a jet! get the canvas wet! on the adjoining panel go over the already done seam once more all the way round.
starting from the top means that the liquid creeps down and makes sure the bottom of the tent get really wet a good idea as this is where the water runs to and ground splashes jump up to. the biggest mistake is not using enough youl end up redoing it very quickly . we used 12.5 litres on a 4.4 x 4.4 mtr tent it loved it and not one drop hit the ground using one of those finger powered pump sprayers as the camping shop recomended would have ended up with a trigger finger muscles thicker than my arm
Post last edited on 15/08/2006 22:14:49
Thanks Chesters that advice is really useful, we recently bought a frame tent, old but great condition, but decided to be on safe side to reproof it, what a nightmare! Previous threads suggested doing it from the inside with brushes, then rubbing with cloth, we ended up with more fabsil on us and the floor!! we ended up only doing two ceiling panels, mainly cos I couldnt stand the smell of the stuff and even on a ladder it was hard to reach. So we will try again using your method.
Does the fabsil have any impact on the fire retardence of the tent?
Amazing family weekend with old steam engines, classic car displays, market stalls, and full catering and bar. And camping on site - Save £25 by booking in advance.
Topic: Applying fabsil
Smile and the world smiles with you, we hope!!
