We have an Avondale leder 1996.. we are having issues with hot water pressure, we have replaced the intake and pump, New switches on taps all wiring is good... cold water pressure is great, I'm not sure what to look at next any ideas should be fantastic 😇
If the cold water pressure is fine, I would look at the water heater itself. I'm not sure which one you have, but if it's the Carver Cascade the non-return valve on the inlet can stick.
Quote: Originally posted by Colin21 on 14/11/2022
If the cold water pressure is fine, I would look at the water heater itself. I'm not sure which one you have, but if it's the Carver Cascade the non-return valve on the inlet can stick.
I agree with the above comment as with the year caravan it would most likely be a Carver Cascade model. The hot water plastic valve has a ball bearing that runs through a steel tube inside the plastic housing which when the water has been drained down and left for a while it can cause surface corrosion inside which is enough to stop the ball bearing sliding to and fro which opens and shuts the valve. The ball can seize up near the open or closed position which low water pressure suggests that it's seized in the closed position not allowing water to pass through. I would suggest replacing the valve and see if it rectifies the problem.
If you have microswitch taps, turn the hot on, then slightly turn on the cold until the switch clicks. If you then get pressure you have a microswitch fault
Ok that's great thank u.. it is casecade, and it sits on the floor to the right ov the sink... no room to look around it, where do I find the non return valve, do I access it from outside the caravan? Or onside behind the heater system
Quote: Originally posted by Emmaros on 14/11/2022
Ok that's great thank u.. it is casecade, and it sits on the floor to the right ov the sink... no room to look around it, where do I find the non return valve, do I access it from outside the caravan? Or onside behind the heater system
You access the non return valves on the inside behind the shroud that fits flush to the caravan side. There will be two plastic water pipes attached to the shroud which one is blue (cold) and the other red (hot) which you will find are secured by jubilee clips. You need to drain the water system first then undo the jubilee clip on the red pipe and withdraw it from the non return valve which will be a tapered tube. There is a 20mm. hexagon nut on the non return valve which has to be unscrewed in an anticlockwise direction which the 16mm. plastic thread is a taper thread so locks in solid to stop any leaks when the water is under pressure. However, plastic age hardens over time so the non return valve will break off leaving the thread inside. The next part is a complex process so you need to find other threads on the forum relating to the Carver Cascade non return valve.
Ok, so we have replaced non return valve and the hot water valve, all micro switches are working all fuses we can find are ok, the water heater is working.... it's like no water is getting in to the heater system, what would cause this any idea? I'm about to give up 😔
Quote: Originally posted by Emmaros on 19/11/2022
Ok, so we have replaced non return valve and the hot water valve, all micro switches are working all fuses we can find are ok, the water heater is working.... it's like no water is getting in to the heater system, what would cause this any idea? I'm about to give up 😔
Re reading through this thread I notice that Tango55 said that the non-return valve was in the red (hot) pipe connection to the heater. Mine was in the blue pipe, which is the cold water inlet to the heater. The hot water outlet is straight through, no valve in it at all. If you have put a non-return valve in the outlet rather than the inlet, you will find exactly as you describe, no water getting into the system as the faulty non-return valve is still in place. Putting a non-return valve in the outlet would also stop water getting out of the heater if there was water in it.
Quote: Originally posted by Emmaros on 19/11/2022
Ok, so we have replaced non return valve and the hot water valve, all micro switches are working all fuses we can find are ok, the water heater is working.... it's like no water is getting in to the heater system, what would cause this any idea? I'm about to give up 😔
Re reading through this thread I notice that Tango55 said that the non-return valve was in the red (hot) pipe connection to the heater. Mine was in the blue pipe, which is the cold water inlet to the heater. The hot water outlet is straight through, no valve in it at all. If you have put a non-return valve in the outlet rather than the inlet, you will find exactly as you describe, no water getting into the system as the faulty non-return valve is still in place. Putting a non-return valve in the outlet would also stop water getting out of the heater if there was water in it.
I think you are right about the non return valve being on cold inlet (Blue pipe) only because it's the water pump when activated opens the non return valve then shuts off again when the pump stops operating. Not sure how the hot water operates but I reckon that your answer is right so my apologies to the OP regarding my previous post as it wasn't intended to be misleading.
Quote: Originally posted by Emmaros on 19/11/2022
Ok, so we have replaced non return valve and the hot water valve, all micro switches are working all fuses we can find are ok, the water heater is working.... it's like no water is getting in to the heater system, what would cause this any idea? I'm about to give up 😔
Re reading through this thread I notice that Tango55 said that the non-return valve was in the red (hot) pipe connection to the heater. Mine was in the blue pipe, which is the cold water inlet to the heater. The hot water outlet is straight through, no valve in it at all. If you have put a non-return valve in the outlet rather than the inlet, you will find exactly as you describe, no water getting into the system as the faulty non-return valve is still in place. Putting a non-return valve in the outlet would also stop water getting out of the heater if there was water in it.
I think you are right about the non return valve being on cold inlet (Blue pipe) only because it's the water pump when activated opens the non return valve then shuts off again when the pump stops operating. Not sure how the hot water operates but I reckon that your answer is right so my apologies to the OP regarding my previous post as it wasn't intended to be misleading.
I'm sure it wasn't Tango, an easy mistake to make. When the pump starts up it pushes water into the hot cylinder through non-return valve forcing it open to allow water in. Cold water in pushes heated water out towards the taps. Once the pump stops the valve closes stopping the water in the hot-tank from draining back into the water carrier (aquaroll etc).
If the non-return valve has stuck it won't allow water to enter the hot cylinder (tank).
Yes haha I put the non return valve on the cold... I did c this when removing the old ones... so my pump only works when the water taps are turned on.... so this would mean to fill my hot system I need to run the cold for ages to get the water in to the hot system and?
Quote: Originally posted by Emmaros on 21/11/2022
Yes haha I put the non return valve on the cold... I did c this when removing the old ones... so my pump only works when the water taps are turned on.... so this would mean to fill my hot system I need to run the cold for ages to get the water in to the hot system and?
yes that is the normal way, when you turn up on site and attach your pump with a full water barrel, you go to the furthest tap from the pump (normally the bathroom ones) and turn on the tap, this then allows the water into the pipework and also fills the water heater, expelling the air in the system at the same time. this normally takes only a few minutes to do until the taps run smoothly and stop spurting/coughing water.
once done, when you use any tap, this will turn on the water pump moving water to either the cold pipes or the water heater, if you are drawing hot water this eventually would turn the water cold until it reheats back up.
Quote: Originally posted by Emmaros on 21/11/2022
Yes haha I put the non return valve on the cold... I did c this when removing the old ones... so my pump only works when the water taps are turned on.... so this would mean to fill my hot system I need to run the cold for ages to get the water in to the hot system and?
Yes that's right. When you first connect up the water carrier and pump the hot water tank will be empty, so you have to fill it. Close all the cold taps and turn on a hot tap so that the pump starts up, this will fill the hot tank, about 8 litres if I remember right. Eventually water will start coming out of the hot tap, usually in a lot of spurts as all the air in the pipe is expelled. Once you have a smooth flow of water through one hot tap you can turn on any others in turn to expel the air from them. Then repeat with the cold taps until all the air is out of the pipes. Don't turn the water heating on until the tank is full as that can cause damage.
Once you have filled the hot tank it will remain full for the remainder of your stay on site, even if your water container runs dry, so when you refill your water container (aquaroll) you don't have to go through it all again as the hot tank will already be full. Don't forget to drain down the hot tank at the end of the season though or it can freeze and wreck itself. The drain plug is on the outside.
Ok great that u so much hopefully this is my issue.... I'm guessing it will take 10 0r 20 min to fill do it matter wat hot tap I turn on to fill the tank?
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Topic: No hot water pressure
via mobile 14/11/2022 at 8:55am
