So I came up to my van to use my diy water system drainer tomorrow.
On arrival I always check the battery voltage on the panel, it normally shows somewhere around 12.8 ish. Noticed yesterday that it was 12.1. I checked the fuse and it had burnt as opposed to have blown.
Changed the fuse but not sure it is working as the panel meter hasn't changed, ie showing just over 12. I didn't bring my multi-meter with me so I can't check if there is power getting to the battery. The battery is about 3 years old.
I will be taking the battery home with me tomorrow to check that out.
If it were to be the charger, are these available as a separate unit or do you have to buy a complete bigger unit? Any info appreciated.
It is likely to be a fairly standard BCA 20A battery charger and available as a replacement if needed. this link may help, plus you could always look up your part omn the Bailey Prima Leisure web site.
However, before you do, check the mains plug to it inside the big plastic box where the cut-outs and fuses are, (it looks a bit like one that powers a kettle), they have a habit of working loose over time and it could save you a bob or two.
Dave.
Post last edited on 02/01/2023 13:13:57
------------- Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.
Many thanks for your reply and the links for battery chargers.
I am at home now contemplating my next move.
To check the kettle lead supplying the charger is correctly seated will be
my first job. I guess the charger is located behind the panel where the fuses and breakers are housed so I would imagine the way to proceed is to disconnect the battery and mains supply then remove this panel. Is this a case of just removing the front mounting screws?
In the mean time I have shut off the 12 volt master switch and connected my car charger and after a few hours disconnected the charger put the master switch back on noticed the standing battery voltage had risen from 12v to 12.6v which makes me think the battery is ok and the problem is at the charging side.
I have the van located on a seasonal pitch and the only regular use on the 12v system is the water pump so I think in the short term I can keep the battery topped up with the car charger. However when snooping around I notice that the led on the motor mover flashes, indicating it has a live supply to it. In 3 years I have had no need to use the mover so I have been looking to turn it off. The control panel for this is in the internal cupboard over the battery box and it seems to be powered directly from the battery so unless there is a hidden switch somewhere I propose to cut the live feed and insert a switch and fuse.
Hi Rich, good idea fitting an isolator switch, most have one near the battery They usually have a detachable red key like this one, It may be that only the round shaft is on view and you don't realise what it is.
As for access to the charger, in mine, a Series 7, there are some screws holding the unit to the floor and seat frame, plus I needed to remove a small plywood bracket then it came out as a big box. You will then see the screws that hold on the plastic cover, remove and inspect. The battery charge unit is at the top rear amd has a little fan in it which only runs when it gets hot inside. It are prone to fail and knacker the unit so I fitted an extra two, one blowing in and one blowing out permanently on power up.
Yes, isolate the mains and 12 volt supply whislt gaining access.
Dave.
------------- Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.
Once again thank you for your reply, very informative.
I will return to my van in a few days time, hopefully I can choose a dry day.
Over the new year was probably the only time I went to the van without the tools I normally take, i.e. multi-meter, fuses and electrical screwdrivers etc.
Thanks for the link to the isolation switch, I know what you mean, must admit I have never noticed one but at least I know what I am looking for.
The battery was installed 3 years ago and I don't recall noticing anything in the back of the battery box. The power has been connected for 3 years so I guess that hasn't helped. I wanted to keep a mains rodent repeller on as the previous van took on a few lodgers that created a fair bit of damage.
With regards to the battery charger, I will check that there is no output and if that is the case will be looking to get one (but not from Bailey).
I like the idea of 2 fans, I have some small 12v ones but that will be a project for later in the year.
I looked everywhere in and behind the battery box for a fuse and an isolation switch for the motor mover but didn't find either.
I decided to completely remove the feed to the motor mover feed until I get an isolation switch. What I did notice was that the battery clamps were not as tight as they could have been and also the same with the wires attached to the battery clamps. I know poor connections can be a reason for fuses blowing.
I managed to remove the front panel of the consumer unit to gain access to the kettle lead. I remove the lead to see if there was any corrosion but all seemed fine. So I ensured the kettle lead was firmly seated, but no apparent output from the charger. I removed the charger to take home and to order a replacement. This has arrived today and I hope to install the new charger tomorrow.
I have 2 questions which I am seeking clarification please -
The fuse in the consumer unit (15 amp) had blown and this was replaced.
Is it likely that the other 20 amp fuse - hidden in the wiring system would have blown at the same time?
If this is likely, I will have to locate this fuse. As previously stated this is probably located in the depths of the wiring loom. What I did notice was at the rear of the consumer unit was a massive bunch of wiring, nicely cabled tied together and about 60mm in diameter. Is this the area where the fuse is likely to be hidden?
Hi Rich, sounds like you are getting somewhere if no output from the charger. Possibly a chicken and egg situation here, did the charger fail and blow the fuse or did an overcurrent condition blow the fuse and damage the charger? So be careful when you fit the new charger. It may well work without ussue and hopefully it does, but just be aware that a fault may exist and be ready to switch off again.
As for the the second question, is the 20 amp fuse also blown? Maybe, mine is within 6 inces of the battery box and in fairly plain sight. You could check it for continuity with a multimeter in the lead from battery positive to the charger output.
Dave
------------- Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.
As it is a little warmer and the cables more pliable it may be easier to search for the other fuse in the mass of cables which looks like a snakes wedding! It was hovering around zero on my last visit and I was dubious about moving them too much in case the plastic cracked. (If you have ever owned an older Mazda you will know what I mean).
I have wired up a kettle lead socket so I can easily check the mains supply as I wasn't confident my meter probes were making contact.
That's a fair point that you raise recarding cold weather and moving cables and plugs Rich.
I've just looked back at your original post regarding that fuse, you mention that it had overheated not blown. This would suggest that said fuse was a bit loose in it's holder and that the bad connection had caused it to arc. Constant arcing would quickly make the connection worse and the heat generated, melt the fuse.
Were any of the fuse's blades pitted or discoloured? If so replace the fuse holder as it will do the same again in the future.
Dave.
------------- Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.
Thats good news then, one less job to worry about.
It looks like there was a large amount of current passing through it in a short while so it blew very quickly, and that mark was the spatter of molten fuse wire on the case.
Dave.
------------- Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.
As mentioned earlier, the battery connections could have been a lot tighter.
However, I had wired up a female kettle lead to connect to the power supply in put and checked there was a good reading there. Replaced the power supply, turned on the mains then the 12 volt system and the caravan voltmeter indicated around 13.6 volts so hopefully that is the problem solved. I turned everything off and have taken the leisure battery home to ensure it is fully charged for when I return.
Thanks again Dave for your advice on solving this issue.
You are very welcome Rich, glad to be of assistance. This is exactly what a good forum is about, free exchange of knowledge and information. We all need the benefit of someone else's knowledge and previous experience at some time. It's also very good Karma.
Dave.
------------- Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.
I did too when I started. First with a trailer tent, then folding camper and had the caravan 13 years so it's a learning curve. Beginners, left to their own devices would find that curve almost vertical some days. It also saves a fortune in dealer charges if you can do the job successfully yourself, plus the self satisfaction and experienced gained
The abilty to glean information and freely ask questions, over such a range of topics, with like minded and experienced people, is an absolute treasure trove of goodies.
Dave.
------------- Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.
Out of interest, what battery technology is your battery? 12vdc is generally in a discharged stage for a common lead acid battery which when left at that voltage for a long time is not good and therefore has possibly compromised your battery health permanently. Interested also to know what type of battery charger you have in there.
Measuring a battery's voltage properly is tough unless it is isolate from a circuit and left to settle for some hours. If it's a Lithium battery then things are different but most people have lead acid based tech due to their much lower cost to something that is generally considered more robust, as in LifePo4
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