try this overview and the full manual if you still need it? is free to download for personal use from my Website
The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have 'tripped' Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled 'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a ΒΌ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away.
Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.
Quote: Originally posted by shauntbh1 on 27/2/2010
But how do you use it, ie fill the tank etc.
fill barrel to max with water.insert the pump on the outside and place into barrel.make sure the drain stopper is closed on the outside,a screw fitting.close all taps.switch on 12 v mains,switch on pump switch,open one taps and let all the air out.could take a few minutes.when water is flowing from two taps and no air coming out.close taps and the tank should be full and ready to use on gas or electric. once pressure is there the light should go out.test light by opening and closing taps.
Post last edited on 27/02/2010 23:38:17
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
sounds like you have a faulty micro switch in the tap itself.why the hot tap works with the cold tap on is because the cold tap is running the pump for it.
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
Quote: Originally posted by GerryT on 06/5/2013
Thanks for the quick response. How do you fit a micro switch please?
google the main site for swift caravans,on there you will find manuals of many different years.in most of these it gives instructions to change a micro switch on the tap.
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
I have a carver cascade 2 water heater and was working fine last time away went to check caravan and reconnect battery and check all working and my green light wouldn't even come on I know it wouldn't heat up as not got bottle or water pumped through but use too at least come on then go red checked fuses all seem fine anyone any ideas thanks
Main point here is the control switch is powered direct, this means the green light must come on if 12volt is getting onto the control switch.
So, as it is the problem is the switch is not powered up so you need to recheck and find out why? And if your then certain it is, the the switch is faulty
I had a problem with the control switch lights not coming on as they did when I bought the van. It turned out to be a loose fuse in the control switch. Worth a try.
hi all i have a elddis knights bridge 1999 4 berth
i had the same problem with no hot water coming through the taps
i got it all sorted took a bit of messing around as in the end was a £6.5 none return valve
but had to take out the full unit as the old valve broke into bits as i tried to unloosen with a spanner ( size 19mm)
99% of the time its the none return valve at the bottom right looking from inside the van
once that went in i filled the tank up again and hey p[resot 20 mins later hot water coming trough all the taps
Hi Truman and welcome. Not sure what you mean by "water bottle". Do you mean a large container that goes outside with water pumped from it into the van, or do you just mean a bottle to carry drinking water that you carry inside the van? If its the latter, you should be able to get one from any camping shop or similar. If you mean the larger container that goes outside, you need a caravan dealer with an accessory shop. They are normally called an aqua-roll.
The alternative is to look online as I did. I bought two 25 litre bottles for my caravan. As long as you make sure they are advertised as "food quality" plastic you should be fine.
Thank you for your reply. Do you know anything about the switches in a talbot express cause we've just been away and had the hook up lead in but for some reason when we went to start the engine to leave it was flat. So we was puzzled only had it 3 week
I don't know about your vehicle specifically, but that sounds like you were running your internal lights etc from your engine battery rather than a leisure battery. I presume it does have two batteries? If it doesn't, and you only have one battery, it obviously wasn't charging from the EHU.
Do you have a control panel of some kind? There is probably a switch on it to switch from one battery to the other. Possibly someone else who knows your vehicle may be able to help more.
It may be best if you start a new post under motorhomes and campervans, as this is a very old thread and others who may be able to help more may not be reading it. Your post doesn't really relate to the original heading.
Hi I have just bought an Elddis Autostratus Motor home, which has the Carver Cascade 2 Water Heater, I'm really struggling to locate the problem, no lights come on the control panel at all, either when Leisure battery or hooked up to the mains, My Volt meter confirmed that 12v power from the Leisure battery was getting to the panel, but still not lights, cant work out what i am missing.
Gas is on as my cooker works, water pump is working as tap run water.
A day of all things motorhome and campervan. The show is held both in the main indoor arena and across the grounds. Catering, hot drinks and food options are available. Easy access to the site and free parking included. Win one of five pairs of day tickets
Topic: Carver water heater instructions
via mobile 26/5/2019 at 6:26am
