We have recently bought a TEC King and I would like to run a 12V cable to a CD car stereo from the It obviously has a transformer which will step down the voltage from 240V but is it simply a case of runnig a wire from this? Does anyone know where you can get a wiring diagram explaining just how all the 12V+240V works together?
I've just had a word with TEC at Sassenberg, and they told me that they don't hold any parts or diagrams for a 85 model, its over 15 years old. In the 80's, caravan manufactures put simple 230/12v transformers into the vans, and on some cheaper vans still do to day. These transformer blocks were normally in the cloths cupboard, behind the heater, normally! They were a simple setup of a transformer with a single diode and relay. On this sort of system the voltage would depend on the load and would start at some thing like 16-18v and finish, with load at 10-11v. The more load, the more 50Hz hum you would get through to the radio. Would you be happy with doing it yourself?
Thanks for this Mike. I did 'have a go' at running a 12v cable from what I think was the 12v board (lots of red and white wires) at the top of the wardrobe (I put a meter on it, but it seemed to be 12v but AC??! is this correct?) When I put the meter onto DC mode, it blew the fuse! (luckily not me!).I have completely take the battery off for now, so any 12V reading that I am getting must be coming from the transformer?
Right mate,here we go. I have over the last 20 years have constantly worked on about 6 old vans. On an 85 van, I would think it would be safe to say that would have to put a new 'Eliminator/Charger' in, and rip the old board out. The choice of the Eliminator/Charger is how much you want to put on the table, but they can be expensive. I chose another way. Bought a 12v 18Amp 'Switch Mode Power' unit from Conrad, but Maplin or Ebay will do., must be switch mode though. Now, with 18Amps (216Watts), you have enough power to feed most things, Fridge, radio, small-12v TV, lights and so on. If you then change all your lamps for 12v LED, Halogen, take each cable through a car-type 7.5A fuse. Mount all this onto a board. If you now add a 12v batt and a cheap car type charger, you have the best of all worlds. Last year I put finishing touches to my old Wilk, putting all the lights onto 12v, setting up a small 12v Battery-Charger (4 amps), and a small 18Amp
but powerful power unit, and a couple of 12v sockets. The beauty of it is, last year pulled up onto a picnic area, dark, pouring with rain at about 9 at night, to make ourselves something to eat. On the parking spot were 2 other vans, and very little light to cook with, while ours was brightly lite. By the way, you cant charge a 12v car battery with a smoothed, regulated DC supply, the plates after a short time would sulphate, therefore lowering the capacity. If you want any help, give me a shout...................
Thanks so much for all your help Mike and Michael! I think you are right and I have to bite the bullet and replace the old board. The transformer hums anyway!!
thanks for all your help, I may call on it again midproject! lol
In the circuit Nr.1 although correct, has one drawback, the voltage drop over the 'Non-Reverse Diode' would be 0.7v to 1.1volt. This means, if you have exactly 12v out of the power unit, on the user fuses, with cable voltage drop, (0.1v to 0.3v) something like 1 volt less (11 Volts). This would be ok normally, but with long cable runs the drop would be more, bad news! So, if you want so eliminate this problem, just add the 2 small diodes and the car relay, as shown in circuit 2. These diodes you can get from Maplin.
There is no need to use the 1N4001, but any 1-2 Amp 50-100 Volt diode will do the trick. Note polarity of diode D1 and D2! The second small power unit is a cheap plug-type, also from Maplin for a few pence. Hope this helps.
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Topic: TEC King wiring
