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You can only repair as you cannot get direct replacement new boards to fit, I should have a good second hand one.

I'm not sure if the rivet had anything to do with though, put a new fuse in and check the resistance between live and neutral, from memory I think it should be in the hundreds of kilo ohms but I suspect it will be short circuit, ie, no resistance.

The fuse works in conjunction with two other components, one to stop inrush current and the other to prevent voltage spikes. If the inrush current is too high it damages this component and increases it's cold resistance which will overload the fuse. If the voltage spike component is overloaded it puts a permanent dead short across live and neutral and this will always blow the fuse.

Inrush component is generally a largish disc often matt green in colour and connected in series along the live before the fuse. The spike arrester is generally a shiny button, tan or red in colour and connected across live and neutral again before the fuse.

If the latter has blown then this will cause the dead short, once you locate it you can cut one leg to break the short and if this allows the board to work, it's a simple matter then to replace it.

R28 btw is designed to get hot but if this damages the solder joint the board is being constantly overloaded, often this constant overload is caused by a faulty battery.

One last thing, make sure you are using the correct fuse, should be a T3.15 I think, that's 3Amps for 1.5 seconds timed fuse. If not then a T2A

I mis-read your first post as you said the fuse 'did not' blow the second time so although what I wrote applies to most it may well not to yours.

And yes give me a ring and I'll see what I have