Hi George , there is about a 6mm gap between the inner part of the alloy frame and the wall board , so there is a good chance the condensation is tracking down and soaking into the wall board .
Hi Wizard, thanks for the photo. I now know where the water goes. It always runs to the lowest corner and obviously down behind the wallboard. It looks like the gap should be sealed from that R/H fixing clamp to the same L/H fixing clamp, some mastic that could easly be removed if the alloy frame needs to come out later, as its internal what mastic do you think is suitable or maybe mastic a thin plastic strip 25mm wide to the alloy frame to cover the gap.
Hi George , yep a strip of roll mastic stuck to the alloy frame should do it , there is quite a few of the fixing clamps so you may need to remove the lower ones to place the roll mastic , then fix back again .
Hi Wizard.that sounds easier to do, how come the numpties that make and design caravans can't think of that in advance. Now that I have nothing else to do lol I will fix all 4 windows. Opps' oh has found another naggin list.
Hi Wizard, was reading about your reseal project and found it very interesting, I have a 14ft Golden Crown, circa 1995, we love the old thing so much my wife has even given it a name.
Anyway the reason for contacting you....at the moment the van is dry but its been in my mind after reading some recent info that the mastic is only good for 10 years? there is a good chance that the mastic on Goldie is at least that, maybe even older.
I have considered resealing it myself as a precaution as it cannot be rocket science, as a retired engineer I understand as you mentioned to be careful with extrusion when removing it as it bends easly.
My question if you could help, my awning rail is approx 40mm wide, the lower rails are about 20mm, where can buy mastic tape in different widths? also would you reccomend using tape as opposed to mastic from a gun?
Hi David , you should be able to buy roll mastic at most good caravan shops , W4 roll mastic comes in three sizes 19mm wide , 32mm wide and 45mm wide , so you should have no problems using 19mm for the 20mm rail and 45mm for the 40mm rail , just need to trim it after fitting. also would you reccomend using tape as opposed to mastic from a gun? Tape is easier to work with , on mine i used both because (1) white tube mastic looks better on the awning rail edges than grey , (2) i was just being extra fussy making sure the rail was totally sealed .
Hope this helps .
atb
Wizard
Ps do feel free to ask as many questions as you like , be glad to advise if i can.
Thanks Wizard, I hope you do not mind me asking another question, I was looking at your resealing project paying particular attention to the awning rail, your rail looks slighly different, unlessyou have removed what I seem to have, mine looks to have a plastic/rubber backing, as there is a bead down each edge of the rail, have you come across this? I wonder if it is a complete moulding where the rail fits into it, could send you a pic if its any help, would appreciate your comments.
Hi David i have the same rubber trim edges on my Swift Challanger awning rails . You may find with yours that the rubber trim goes from one side to the other . I would say you would probably be better of using tube mastic to seal this type of rail .
Thanks wizard for the info, I sort of guessed it might be right across the back of the rail protruding out each side but was not 100% sure, I have taken note that the tube mastic might be better for this application, will use as you suggested in your article silkaflex 512 if I can get it locally, may have to hunt around and also look on ebay from time to time.
Another issue came to mind while I am typing this, sorry to be a pest, maybe you can advise, one of the front plastic windows has a small crack in it on the inside, where the latch is fitted, I had considered drilling a 1 to1.5mm dia hole at the extreame end of the crack to stop it propergating any further, but a new window would be the best option, where would I get one? the local caravanmaster advises it could cost 3-400 pounds for a replacement
Hi George , we're away at the mo and i've been checking the kitchen window in the mornings and it's almost certainly condensation causing the problem , just thought you'd like to know , when i've come up with a fix i'll post it on here .
Hi Wizard, now you know the cause the fix is to stop the water from going down the back of the wallboard. At the moment my choice is lay off the beer (less condensation when you breathe) or leave windows nearest bed on half catch and pull blinds down two inchs at the top. No prizes for guessing which one I chose.
I was away last weekend and found the dreaded cracked shower tray. It is on the corner where it is paper thin due to the forming process. The cause is the tray sits on fresh air and flexes up and down when you stand on it. The tray is shaped with a step at one end to allow it to be fitted over a wheel arch or in my case in rear wash room where the back wall tapers back at the bottom.
Removing the tray is not easy as it is welded to all four ABS walls and would have to be cut out. When replaced it would have to be welded as silicon would not hold as the van flexes too much. I have cut a 6" x 6" inspection hole in the sink unit where the void is behind the tray step. I can now see why the tray moves up and down, glued to the bottom is 15mm semi rigid foam which does not touch the floor by 7mm at rear to 3mm at the front.
Thinking if I can pack under the foam to stop the tray moving I might be able to cold weld the crack in the tray.
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Topic: Damp meter testing
