i have a 2003 bailey ranger, recently the heater started playing up whilst on mains electic. basically no heat comes out of the fire now but the green light on the thermostat is on and it clicks when i go through the setting. it sounds like the heater is coming on but no heat.
try changing the 10 amp fuse in the main switch.i found mine only had a blown 5 amp fitted. on some there is a reset button on the left as you look at the fire,about 8 inch down the back of the fire.could be a faulty element but maybe not.if all fails contact gary arc systems.i also had a broken mains switch.it was switching on but not doing anything on the underside of the switch.only a complete replacement cured it.
This sounds very much like the relays have packed up, yes they click but the contacts are burnt out so no power is getting to the elements, frankly on a 2003 van they've done well to last this long!
Solution if I'm correct is to change the control board at the back of the fire, this is easy enough in itself but getting at it can be difficult. I can supply a re-con board that is better than buying a new one....and it's a lot cheaper!
However, one of the two limit thermostats could also be at fault, these again are easy to change but difficult to get at, the gas fire needs removing to gain access.
In either case, the best way of finding out is to use a 'clamp' type Amp meter, with this the current drawn on each setting can be measured and your looking for a little over 8A on 2000W
If considerably less than this then it's the relays, if all but no current is being drawn? then it will be one of the stats
Hi Gary, I just tried your number. I'll try again when you're back in on Monday! You kindly offered us advice back in January re: our Truma Ultraheat not working on electric. We disconnected the remote sensor from the pcb and it seemed to be fine. Alas, it was not to last. We've been away about another 7 times and it has decided to stop working on electric again. It's exactly as jamows describes above; green light works, clicks when moving dial through 500w, 1k and 2k, fan works, all connections plugged in okay, gas heating works just no heat from electric element.
I've been reading up on some of your old threads again and spotted this one re: recon pcb's. I'd be really interested in buying one of these off you if at all possible. We've had a look today at the pcb housing and can see how fiddly it'll be to work with! Do you provide instructions by any chance? Thanks! Natalie
Hi Gary, no problem! I rang very close to 5pm on a Friday and know how busy you must be. I appreciate your quick reply. I'll give you a call on Monday afternoon about 4pm re: ordering a recon pcb if that's okay? Hope you're weekend is better than the week you've had?! Thanks again, Natalie
About 5pm would be the time I do the post office run, nothing gets in the way of that?!
As for weekends, the last several and every evening have been taken up refurbishing 6 landing door frames and then hanging new doors?
Seemed to me it was daft to cut a perfectly square door to fit a frame that was anything but square, that meant removing 60 years of paint just for starters! then there's the fact all the walls have been re-plastered and the architrave was half buried which looked bloody awful!
I blame me mate for giving me the doors in the first place, seemed like a good idea?! Still, one interesting thing about all this is the colours I've found and how it reflect peoples tastes over the decades?
Apart from several layers of white, the earliest, perhaps then the original 50's 'in' colour was pale blue, this was followed soon after by Emerald green! and then after a couple of coats of white...by battle ship grey!!
I have a theory about that though, I know one of the previous owners and I seem to remember Mick the oldest son was in the Navy?!
Some other things as well, like one of the bedrooms was heavily padlocked at one time!!, I found four screw holes and the marks of what can only have been the large 'staple' as in hasp and staple.. the mind boggles??
You should open up for tours! I like the sound of Emerald Green (ahem). Not even the 'Changing Rooms' Team is that brave. Sounds like you've plenty on at the mo.
Just a quick update, the pcb is out and it looks like two out of three of the relays have a small amount of blackening on the inside of the covers. I'll give you a buzz about 3.15-4pm re: postage and prices etc. Remember to put the heat gun down before you answer the 'phone. Confusing the two wouldn't be good. Thanks again, Natalie
I don't bother looking at the relays, their simply not designed to work in the way their being used, only way is to swap them for those that are, more expensive but you only have to do it once.
The main point is, before they fail they slowly reduce the current to the elements, no wonder then so many complain about electric heating?!
You would though mention heat gun? I bought a cheap 'Parkside' one from Aldi specifically for this job, I have a very expensive temperature controlled one but why thrash it paint stripping?
The new one worked very well but lasted less than one hour!, So 98% of the job now been wearing out my posh jobby and still no sign of the replacement
Anyway, a logical and simple explanation for that padlock?
My lad suggested that bedroom was used as a store or tool room for the workmen building the houses?
Oh and more colours discovered today, an even brighter green, primrose and mauve!
Hi all, just to say we've bought a recon pcb and replaced the two thermostats (see Gary from Arc Systems for the parts!) and our Truma heater is now working perfectly on electric. It's a fiddly job but easy enough for someone with fairish diy skills. Glad we tackled it and thanks again to Gary for his help and advice. We are happy campers once again.
I was sure I posted a reply to all the logs here relating to the Truma Heater issue which I feel is the same as mine.
All systems work fine and on electric the van gets lovely and warm but then later on in the night the heat goes off just as described earlier. Our heater is mounted under the wardrobe with the stat on the wall of said wardrobe. I have located the additional stat as described which for some reason is mounted under the vanity basin housing next to the Hot blow pipe to the bathroom, er thats why then it trrips out because its getting too warm compared to the rest of the van.
As suggested i am moving it now to the capillary stat which controls the gas temperature mounted to the front at the base of the heater itself.
I will report back with results after new year when it will be pushed to the max.
Thanks to all for their comments and Gary for the tech stuff.
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Topic: truma heater problem
