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Subject Topic: Temp.problem with Truma Water heater
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26/7/2014 at 2:32pm
 Location: Dorset
 Outfit: Sterling Eccles 510
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I have a 2007 Ace Jubilee Envoy and the Truma water heater has started giving problems. When switched on to electricity - very rarely used on gas - it heats up as normal, but after several hours stops heating and produces only luke warm water. If I switch off at the control panel and then switch on again after a few minutes it again works normally and heats the water very quickly. Switching off and on again quickly does not work - it needs at least a couple of minutes. This is particularly annoying first thing in the morning when we want hot water for washing etc. There have not been any problems with fuses blowing or the unit tripping out, just the loss of heat. Any ideas please? Thanks

Dorsettaffy


26/7/2014 at 6:03pm
 Location: N Wales
 Outfit: Hymer Nova 590GL
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I had a problem similar to this in our 2007 van. There is a non return valve in the cold water inlet line. The was not working properly so hot water was being pushed back along the line. So you would start off with hot water but if you left the heater on say overnight you would get water out that was at best lukewarm. I eventually realised that there was hold water in the cold water supply replaced the valve about £5 from leisure spares iirc problem solved and a lot cheaper than replacing the element.

Leisure spares have a parts diagram for the heater and the part number for nr valve. There are 2 types depending on whether it is a push fit or barbed fitting. If it is a push fit and you have not used them before. Look it up on the net google john guest speedfit. They are really easy to use once you know how. So if this is your prob then it is a simple and cheap DIY job.


26/7/2014 at 6:38pm
 Location: Lichfield
 Outfit: Coachman Vision 450
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I had a similar problem about three years ago with our 1999 year caravan but mine worked okay on gas but not so well on 240 mains so I descaled my system with Truma Aquastar 1+2 which solved the problem. The limescale clings to the element and other steel components in the hot water tank which builds up over the years and restricts the performance of the element exactly the same as a domestic electric kettle. I would suggest to try it on gas first before you do anything and if it works okay then this is evidence that it's not the non return valve at fault.


26/7/2014 at 9:00pm
 Location: N Wales
 Outfit: Hymer Nova 590GL
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Quote: Originally posted by tango55 on 26/7/2014
I had a similar problem about three years ago with our 1999 year caravan but mine worked okay on gas but not so well on 240 mains so I descaled my system with Truma Aquastar 1+2 which solved the problem. The limescale clings to the element and other steel components in the hot water tank which builds up over the years and restricts the performance of the element exactly the same as a domestic electric kettle. I would suggest to try it on gas first before you do anything and if it works okay then this is evidence that it's not the non return valve at fault.



Sorry disagree. 90% of our caravaning is do done off mains so gas is the normal way we heat our water. We didn't have a problem on gas. I have always assumed that was because the gas heats from the bottom. But the electric element is quite high up on the boiler so was cutting out earlier. There was some spluttering as the air was expelled from the top of the boiler but with the gas heating the water there was always enough water for a hot shower. The give away for me was when I realised the cold feed was hot indicating to me that the hot water was being pushed down the line.

I am not,saying that this is definitely the cause of the Op's problem but changing the valve fixed it for me.


27/7/2014 at 10:05am
 Location: Near Alton Towers
 Outfit: Bailey+Burgundy+S7+H
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Welcome to the forum dorsettaffy, I had the non-return valve problem on our new camper and like boff, the tube down to the aquaroll was warm instead of cold. we had a micro-switch on the tap that ran the pump and the biggest clue when you ran a tap was that there was always a lot of spluttering as it purged loads of air out. Not sure if yours is a pressure switch type but that case the pump would run intermittently as the pressure dropped.

It may simply be a bad electrical connection on say, the control PCB that gets worse when it warms up due to thermal expansion.

Dave



-------------
Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.


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27/7/2014 at 6:48pm
 Location: Dorset
 Outfit: Sterling Eccles 510
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Many thanks for all your suggestions. I have had the heater on all afternoon to see if there was any feedback of hot water along the cold water supply. There is no sign of any hot water even a few inches from the point where the cold water supply enters the heater so I think the non-return valve must be doing its job OK. I will leave it on all night and see what the water temp is tomorrow morning. Thanks again.

Dorsettaffy


28/7/2014 at 4:32pm
 Location: Dorset
 Outfit: Sterling Eccles 510
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Thanks again for your help - having spoken to Truma today it appears that the heating element needs to be replaced as the built in temp sensor has failed!

Dorsettaffy



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