I have a 1995 Abbey Cabaret and it has some de-lamination in the obvious high traffic areas in the van. I know that delaminated floors are a relatively easy fix as I have done some research but I can't find any advice on wether the green polyurethane one shot or the twin Epoxy kits are best.
I've just found an article by a member called Trog. Very in-depth 'how to guide' about the difference between to two. To me it seems easier to use the One-Shot but more long lasting using the Epoxy. Trog's post didn't say this but I've heard that if you use the Epoxy stuff it waterproofs the floor as well as hardening. How true is this.
My other problem, floor related is a tiny bit of damp under the cooker unit. I'm pretty positive it is coming in through next to the wheel arch as the sealant that joins the plastic wheel arch to the caravan floor has worn away, it is a 20 year old van. but the thing I'm stuck with is that the sealant is black and I am wondering if I could just use Sikaflex to fill the gaps and would it be a good idea to dry the floor out before starting the work on the delaminated floor? bearing in mind that the damp is very minuscule. I've ripped the lino up from underneath the cooker and it run up into the wall.
I used the One-Shot and can recommend it after the write-up from Trog, I found it very good to use. The mix doesn't need all the top & bottom supports as the foaming is less aggressive. Not sure about longevity but I used plenty of the doweling, both 8 & 10mm to give maximum support.
Most adhesives wont 'grip' on anything wet but it's what starts the chemical reaction with the One Shot. I'd imagine a combination of the two will get the job done but probably best to get everything clean & dry first, good luck.
Dave
------------- Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.
Hi Adam, thankfully I have never had to tackle anything other than a springy floor, nothing structural. My suggestion is to look in the Fixed It Club Directory section, there are some impressive pieces of work done there and these guys are the ones with the experience & know-how to advise you. Good luck.
Dave
------------- Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.
one shot is very easy to use.. providing you use plenty of dowel pegs the repair will be stronger than the original..
the hardest bit is the carpet or vinyl removal and replacement.. drilling holes squirting in glue and tapping in the dowel pegs is effortless and very easy..
I must admit I did go a bit over the top when I did mine. I thought, I only want to do this once so ended up using plenty of dowels and much more one-shot as a consequence but it's as solid as a rock now.
For interest, I stuck carpet protector roll down on my plywood before I started drilling & filling, most of the foam gunge that oozed up out of the holes ended up on the top of it & not on the floor, it was much easier to clean up afterwards.
Luckily my carpets are loose and just lift out, the lino underneath is fake wooden boards so I cut around the 'plank joints' and edges so that the patch removed is irregular and easier to hide when reinstated.
Dave
------------- Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.
i left my (well stuck down) vinyl in place rather than try and take it all out..
i then re-covered the entire floor with (cheap) vinyl effect sticky planking and put a carpet runner down the middle..
learning as i went along as i was.. one tip.. if anyone does as i did roughen up the old vinyl before sticking the new planking down.. vinyl is one those things that dosnt take things sticking to it very well..
no harm is done by going over the top with dowels its all add the the strength of the finished result.. better too many than too few..
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Topic: De-lamination. Poly or Epoxy?
