Please can any one help. I've just been to my caravan which has been shut up 6 months and my hot water heater not working I'm not sure if I did anything to damage it as the electric going to the tank was on when no water in the tank as I had drained it could I of blown the element? My old heater on different van had a reset button but cannot find one on this caravan heater. It a lunar freelander 1998 model. Also I do t know whether this heater so runs on gas and I don't have any manuals. Has anyone have any ideas I could try next time I go to the caravan before getting someone into replace or repair or just flick a switch thank very much. Annette
------------- I have been caravaning now for about 15 years and love it, I do hope for a newer van one day with a fixed bed but not yet.
Is the caravan in storage or outside the home? The reason I ask is how you have determined that the emersion heater is not working on mains electricity that's all.
If it is a carver cascade GE then it will have red reset button on the end of tank away from the wall. Iif it is a Truma heater ( grey round tank with a cover outside you have to take off to use on gas ) then just make sure the electric supply to it has been switched off for at least 10 mins and tank is filled with cold water and try again ( if it has any warm wTer in at all the auto reset will not work ).
------------- Bill
For a licence dated 1997 or later you must add together the plated max weight of the caravan and trailer, if the total is 3500 or less you can tow it. You may even tow a caravan with a MAM greater than the cars unladen mass the restriction was removed in 2013
not absolutely certain with yours but 99/2000 cascades had a flap covering the reset button, if you may need to slacken the righthand side screw and the flap will pivot out of the way.
Hi I'm not sure where there is a flap but if could look at my profile I put a couple of pics of my tank there is one bit on it that could hide the button but I think I would have to loosen a but possably would this be it? Thank you
Annette
------------- I have been caravaning now for about 15 years and love it, I do hope for a newer van one day with a fixed bed but not yet.
I may be wrong but that does not look like any Carver Cascade that I remember, it is more like an early Truma ultra store. If it is a Truma the reset is automatic, you isolate the heater from electrics, fill with cold water ( if the tank is not cold the heater will not reset ) leave for ten or fifteen minutes and then turn the electric back on and it should work.
------------- Bill
For a licence dated 1997 or later you must add together the plated max weight of the caravan and trailer, if the total is 3500 or less you can tow it. You may even tow a caravan with a MAM greater than the cars unladen mass the restriction was removed in 2013
The OP still hasn't answered the question as to how they have tested the appliance on 240 volt mains unless they have access to electricity at the caravan storage which most storage facilities don't have. You need to be connected to mains power for the reset button to operate.
Having just re read the original post Annette can be assured that the heater is supposed to work on gas.
------------- Bill
For a licence dated 1997 or later you must add together the plated max weight of the caravan and trailer, if the total is 3500 or less you can tow it. You may even tow a caravan with a MAM greater than the cars unladen mass the restriction was removed in 2013
Bill Turn the picture over and all becomes clear!, it is a Cascade but just of the electrics cover on the end of the tank.
It is also what I was expecting, and yes they are nut heads on the screws, so if needed, 1/4inch spanner or pair of pliers like everyone else uses!... JUST the one screw though on the right of the little flap.
Don't re-tighten after so flap will flip out of the way next time, never understood why they fitted the flap anyway after 17yrs without needing one?....
....someone dreamt up a new rule I suppose!!
As for any other questions, have a read of this....
The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have 'tripped' Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled 'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a ΒΌ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away.
Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.
Hi thanks to you all posting messages I think what arc systems could be the answer just need to get back to caravan to try it. Would this of happened because possibly the electrics was going to tank whilst empty? As for using with gas I can't find the panel with the three lights as mentioned I had it on old caravan strange.
I will let you know about water soon thanks
Annette
------------- I have been caravaning now for about 15 years and love it, I do hope for a newer van one day with a fixed bed but not yet.
Quote: Originally posted by arc systems on 23/3/2015
Bill Turn the picture over and all becomes clear!, it is a Cascade but just of the electrics cover on the end of the tank.
It is also what I was expecting, and yes they are nut heads on the screws, so if needed, 1/4inch spanner or pair of pliers like everyone else uses!... JUST the one screw though on the right of the little flap.
Don't re-tighten after so flap will flip out of the way next time, never understood why they fitted the flap anyway after 17yrs without needing one?....
....someone dreamt up a new rule I suppose!!
I learn something every day, thank you.
------------- Bill
For a licence dated 1997 or later you must add together the plated max weight of the caravan and trailer, if the total is 3500 or less you can tow it. You may even tow a caravan with a MAM greater than the cars unladen mass the restriction was removed in 2013
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Topic: Cascade rapide water heater
