I'm a little new to this forum and I'm sure this has been covered a million times.
I think I have damp in my 1996 Fleetwood Garland 185/5. The only thing is that I don’t know how bad it is. I have opened the window, peeled back the seal and exposed the side of the wood. Unfortunately this doesn't help as I don't know what it's meant to look like.
What made me look there? I hear you ask. Well, the runners that hold the blind and fly screen popped out on our recent holiday. so I tried to screw the retaining screw back in but it feels like there is nothing to screw in to.
thought as much, I will be taking it off tomorrow and posting more pcs hoping for more help. I have had the window out and found that the window had dropped out of the bracket slightly and therefor wouldn't fasten properly. so no need to repair as I've already done it.
Dampness or watergress travels alot further than you think, by looks of it when you remove wall boards, the wood framing around window will also be damp i would think, once wall boards are off you will be able to tell alot easier, if you look at my profile i have added a link to damp repairs around my front windows, gives you step for a hint etc
Thanks for the help. I had a look at story board you’ve done and it looks like a nightmare of a job but nice work. However, I think that mine will be a bit easier as the damp hasn’t gone as far.
As you can see from the pictures I have removed the laminate to see the damage and I know the next step is to remove the window seal but after that I’m stumped. I could be with some idea of what kind of things I need before I start. I.e. tools, covering, time scales etc.
I did a similar repair to my friends caravan not long ago, you will need a sheet of 3.8mm ply (I say 3.8mm as that's the closest you can get) 1 or 2 lengths of 25mm batten, a tube of non setting sealant, a jigsaw, selection of screws, flat and crosshead screwdrivers a staple gun and a friend to help.
Cut the ply to the size of the whole window area, remove the curtain tracks, window stays and catches, there's no need to remove the windows, remove the white strip and window rubbers, place the cut down sheet of ply up against the window area and ask your friend to hold it in place while you draw round each window from the outside, then cut out for the windows with a jigsaw, hand the window rubbers to your friend to clean off all the old sealant (noting where each of them came from as they must go back in the right place) while you remove all the wall board from around the windows, once you have done that you can easliy see where all the rot is, remove all the rot and rebuild the frame with the batten, glue and screw into place, secure the ply into place with the staple gun or screws, put a good size bead of sealant around the outside of the window frame where the rubbers will cover it, as you put the rubbers back in bend it backwards so it flattens the rubber out as you put it against the window frame, that way you won't get too much sealant ooze out from under the rubber, then staple into place, when you put the white strip back in make sure to line up the screw holes in the white strip with the screw holes in the window rubbers, that way everything will be in the right place, you will find you can get one side of the white strip in easily while the other side you will need to use a screwdriver to get the white strip under the edge of the window rubber, fit the stays and catches back on then clean any excess sealant off with brake and clutch cleaner or white spirit.
Crack open a nice cold beer or 2.
It took me 1 whole day to do my friends caravan.
------------- 1st stop Brands Hatch
2nd stop Thruxton
Last Stop Brands Hatch
Next Stop Bournemouth Air Show
OpJonny, the reason i had damp in first place at the front was between the n/s/f window and centre window the vertical grp spar had a stress fracture, near the top, i could only see this once i removed the rotten wood, as youl see in one of my pics, i beefed up these wooden vertical spars not with 25mm battons but with thicker battons, which are bonded to the 3grp spar with pu18, this is now much more strurdy and also sealed the stress fracture when i clamped grp against wood battons, i also replaced my window seals using company sealsdirect, my job cost approx £300 all in, as i had to buy tools, stapler and staples, saw, screws stainless steel, wood, plywood sheets, etc etc, yours does not look at bad as mine, but you will get there, hint, take loads of photos before and during, helps with rebuild
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Topic: Damp arount front window
via mobile 16/6/2020 at 10:32pm
