New to caravanning and recently bought a 1998 Sterling Europa 500L to see if we liked "tin topping"
Thought it was damp free as I damp metered all over (except the ceiling )
Disappointed to discover leaking roof light which upon removal showed damp in the ceiling board
Hacked off the damp spongy board and opened the can of worms !!. The damp extends to the nearside wall, although it stops there and is not evident in the vertical section of wall.
I intend to replace the roof light and approx 1 sq metre of ceiling board. I have a few questions please:
1) I intend to fit a new roof light then replace board up to the nearside wall cupboard only, leaving the small section inside the cupboard which I will drill and fit vents to dry this small piece out. This may seem penny pinching but it seems a right pig to do this section in the cupboard !! and the van is nearly 20 years old and a first go at vanning for us so I don't want to go crazy on repairs.
2) Can I simply fit the new board up to the dry section of Polystyrene and then tape the join?,
if so what joining tape?
3) What is the best adhesive to use?
4) I think the matching board is White Lopez (from Magnum, Grimsby)
5) What is the best method of cutting a straight edge in
the existing fitted, non damp, ceiling board. Is jigsaw to rough?
You will needs some polyurethane adhesive/sealant to install new roof light & you can use that to stick the board down as well. Brands are PU18, Tigerseal, Sikaflex512 & others. Buy from caravan shop or yacht chandler or search Amazon. Cut board with Stanley knife, use a new blade.
A multitool would be best for cutting through the board as that way you can cut along a temporary baton to get a straight line and you can control the depth of the cut.
Thanks guys for the invaluable advice. I have got some W4 mastic and Sikaflex 512 for the rooflight.
Tried cutting boards with a jigsaw with wooden batten fixed to the base to prevent me going too deep on the cutting and puncturing the Ally !!!!!!
Seemed to work OK but difficult to keep a straight cut so I will look at a Dremmel, (Stanley blade is hellish difficult, must have hardwood boards !!!.
As well is two words!
How does a sage know everything about everything? or does he? or does he just think he does?
Remember, if you buy something you bought it, not brought it.
Stripped using Dremell with cutting discs (took 4 as the glue was very hard!!), then used small grinding wheel to straighten the cut as the cutting disc leaves a taper finish because you cannot get the Dremmel at 90 degrees due to its size.
I have decided to fit small wooden beadings at the cupboard joins, however still not sure what sealing tape to use on the panel to panel joins. I will post a finished photo if it works out OK ha ha
New ceiling panel ready to fit, template done from ply so just one cut on the new panel will be needed.
Looking at how to fit the panel up to the ceiling?, if I use sikalex 512 will it go off nice and quick so I am not standing there for ages?
Also the existing ceiling (polystyrene and wooden battens round skylight) seems to flex a lot so surely it will be difficult to glue the new panel?
I was thinking of fitting a few self tappers into the rooflight battens thro the new panel, as they will be hidden by the rooflight surround, however I am not sure if even this will make the new panel rigid enough.. Or should I get some sort of prop from the floor, with a piece of timber on a diagonal on top of the prop ?
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Topic: Ceiling Damp (Roof light)
