Thanks to Navver for pointing out the errors of my ways with regrades to reading a multimeter on the amps setting. I'm that used to reading ohms and making the respective adjustments I automatically did the same with the amps readings!!
So, reducing the readings by a factor of 10 its is indeed 0.09A so not too bad after all!
I've re-done the tests and this time I've checked the light switch master on/off and guess what? when its in the 'on' position it is actually open circuit and when its 'off' its actually closed????
I've no idea why this should be. All I know is the lights don't work when its 'off' and do when it's 'on'?
Anyway. Now, with the master switch on the panel in the off position there is a draw of 0.03A (all fuses re-fitted. This will be the LCD display of the heating and probably a trickle charge to the alarm unit.)
By my reckoning, on a 120AHR battery that should be fine for over 100day+
The light switch anomaly may be because the lighting master switch operates a relay which does the actual switching, possibly to reduce volt drop. The relay will be normally closed (with coil de-energised) so lights work when master switch is open circuit. This is quite likely. The relay will draw a very small current when energised by switching the lighting master switch off.
Or... it might be a 2 way switch, possibly.
The fridge does draw a very small current (for controls) when not working unless the switch on the fridge is in the off position.
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Topic: Odd load on `off` switch
