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Topic: Thetford Fridge N112 Igniter Won`t Stop

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Jdh1973

05/11/2018 at 8:38am
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I have a Thetford 3 Way Fridge, model N112.
On gas, once it has ignited the igniter won't stop sparking then after 30 seconds it shuts off as it thinks it hasn't ignited.
I have cleaned and tried to reposition the electrode over the flame as I think it uses the electrode to not only ignite the flame but also detect it.
Has anyone had similar symptoms with their fridges?
Any help or advice of where to head to from here would be appreciated.

tango55

05/11/2018 at 4:44pm
Location: Lichfield
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Could well be a defective igniter module.

Jdh1973

05/11/2018 at 7:42pm
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Thank for the feedback.
By the igniter module do you mean the...
a)the igniter electrode
b)the igniter component on the PCB
or
c)the whole PCB?

I guess its gunna be process of elimination between a) or c)

-a) = $70 NZD
-c) = $380 NZD

So I think I'll start with a) unless someone else can pinpoint this issue for me.

Additional info - When Frigde shuts down the error code is 9

tango55

05/11/2018 at 9:44pm
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The correct term for the electronic automatic fridge igniter is called a 'piezo' ignition therefore you can search for Thetford fridge parts using this description. However, the link below shows various boxes relating to the N112 model which are exploded diagrams that you can view to identify the ignoter module.

/2/" target="_blank">Here

moorlander999

05/11/2018 at 10:27pm
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hang on before spending any cash.....

I had THE same problem with an N90......in September this year.....Thought it was going to be an expensive repair...But try this...

Take off both external fridge vents...you may need a torch and a small mirror..

Locate the small blue connector box below the fridge elements ...usually at the bottom....It will have a couple of small thin gauge wires running into it...This is the igniter control.....Check that the wires are fully located on the terminals...One was loose on mine...Pulled it off, crimped it up , reconnected...good spray with WD40 and bingo....ALL OK...

birdman101

06/11/2018 at 8:32am
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Quote: Originally posted by moorlander999 on 05/11/2018
hang on before spending any cash.....

I had THE same problem with an N90......in September this year.....Thought it was going to be an expensive repair...But try this...

Take off both external fridge vents...you may need a torch and a small mirror..

Locate the small blue connector box below the fridge elements ...usually at the bottom....It will have a couple of small thin gauge wires running into it...This is the igniter control.....Check that the wires are fully located on the terminals...One was loose on mine...Pulled it off, crimped it up , reconnected...good spray with WD40 and bingo....ALL OK...

Good advice. I have on average found faults to be in connecters back of the fridge. If not loose often have been making poor connection due to being in a position where external damp can effect them through the vents.

Jdh1973

06/11/2018 at 8:57am
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Thanks guys when head back up to the caravan I'll have a closer look as las time I didn't have the hex driver bit to take the cover off where the pcb is housed.
Now that you mention it when I first tried to light it after cleaning the flue pipe (which is when it started have this issue) if I tapped around the area where the burner is the clicking would stop briefly then start again. By continually tapping it it eventually ran. Although after adjusting the igniter electrode it now keeps clicking and then shuts off.

So hopefully it may just be a poor connection??
I'll let you know the outcome.
Thanks again.

moorlander999

06/11/2018 at 9:53am
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you shouldn't need any tools...just remove the external fridge vents on the outside of the van...the spark controller should be visible at the bottom of the fridge below the the black elements

tango55

06/11/2018 at 5:26pm
Location: Lichfield
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You can test the existing lighter module with a voltmeter to see if it's working effectively. That's how I found out mine was defective when I had a 1992 caravan which the fridge back then was an Electrolux model and the igniter module was located on the top. The four front mounting screws had to be removed before just sliding the fridge forward but the later fridges are installed differently. However, if the fridge has electronic 'Piezo' ignition there will be a module somewhere which I think is shown in the link I provided in my second post.

Jdh1973

06/11/2018 at 8:08pm
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All good ..........a few things I can try.
Not sure about testing the igniter with a volt meter, dont these put out extremely high voltage?

Also the N90 "Moorlander999" mentioned must be different as all my control and cables lead back to a black enclosure with a PCB in it!

Cheers guys

tango55

07/11/2018 at 12:38am
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Quote: Originally posted by Jdh1973 on 06/11/2018
All good ..........a few things I can try.
Not sure about testing the igniter with a volt meter, dont these put out extremely high voltage?

Also the N90 "Moorlander999" mentioned must be different as all my control and cables lead back to a black enclosure with a PCB in it!

Cheers guys

The electronic 'Peizo' electronic ignition is operated by 12 volts power which comes from the leisure battery so the igniter won't function without a fully charged battery connected up. If the leisure battery is only half charged then the igniter will receive a weak spark which could be part of the problem so a voltmeter is essential if you really want to identify the underlying fault. The first thing to check is the battery before tampering with other components as it could be something quite simple which quite often is the case but having the right tools for the job is paramount. However, I'm not sure why you seem to think that igniter produces extremely high voltage when the power comes from the battery therefore a voltmeter is more than adequate for checking both 240 volt mains and 12 volt power.

malxme

08/2/2024 at 6:25am
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Reviving a very old thread here...did you ever solve this? I have the same issue, told I need a new PCB but Thetford no longer manufacture them

navver

08/2/2024 at 6:57pm
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I think the spark is created by converting the 12 volt to high voltage, maybe 20 or 3000volts similar to car ignition.

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