Hi, have an 2008 Eldiss Xplore 452 caravan with damp in the lower rear wall. Had one quote for repair so far which is more than I was expecting at £2000, however the company who quoted said they would not remove the external rails to reseal them but would instead remove the screws and inject new sealeant into the holes and then clean out and reseal along the the edges of the rails. When I queried this I was told by the company that this was standard practice as complete removal of the rails could risk damage during removal and replacements rails may not be available.
I was just wondering if this sounded right or is it normal for rails to be fully removed, cleaned and then fully resealed when refitting?
I`m a little baffled.....
If you have damp I`m presuming there is damage to to the timber, which will need the screws removing to replace the damaged wood from the inside. I would definitely remove the rails, meticulously clean the two surfaces and reseal the rail properly using new screws.
If you are half-handy it isn`t a difficult job, a little time consuming but thats pretty much what you are paying for anyway. A second pair of hands is useful for removing the rail to prevent distortion. I re-built the entire off-side corner of a 1986 Lunar Sunbeam which was rotten and when it was traded in the dealer assumed it was a `professional` repair.
A local realership used to charge about 350 quid to remove and re-seal a section of awning rail (properly). I can`t see how someone can charge £2K for what appers to be a botch.
Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify the £2k would include for removing the items in the washroom against the rear wall (1 tall cupboard, 1 sink & under cupboard unit) removing the lower part of the wall board all across the back wall, repairing any damaged battens & flooring and sealing all external rails in the rear area using the method stated.
Sealing around the rails without removing them is a job you could do yourself for the price of a cartridge of Sikaflex 512. I suggest you do that which will stop the leaks & the interior should dry out. Does the interior seem wet ie soft bits ?
I would avoid this repairer. It is true what they say though that removing rails risks damaging them & unlikely to get replacement for a 13yr old caravan. From their description of the work they offer it sounds like it might not be worth doing. All I ever did with an old caravan was seal around edges of rails as described. Did not look pretty but did the job.
the rails on "modern" caravans have a flexible lip on the edge that sits on the roof and down the back / front, to reseal put the point of the sealant nozzle under the lip and work your way round, i did this on one half of my rail, after first removing the other half to reseal, and believe me it was a wrestle to get the first one off, and it buckled and twisted as it was being removed, after carefully straightening it i managed to refit and reseal it, whilst buying the sealant at my local dealers he told me they dont remove them anymore unless absoloutly ness esary.use white spirit to clean up the sealant ,and you will end up with a good looking seal. as for the damp interior, maybe hire a dehumidifier,
stu
p.s. my previous van 1990 avondale, didnt have the flexible strips.
stu
Thanks for the replies. I guess if not removing the rails then I would need to overlap the new sealant bead over both rail & side panel. Is it necessary to try and clean out as much of the existing sealant as possible or can it be sealed over the top?
Wall board is stained all ther way across the lower rear panel, a couple of spots feel slightly soft if pressed with the thumb so I'm guessing the battens behind will be wet.
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Thanks for the replies. I guess if not removing the rails then I would need to overlap the new sealant bead over both rail & side panel. Is it necessary to try and clean out as much of the existing sealant as possible or can it be sealed over the top?
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yes ,try to remove any hard or flaky sealant , before over sealing
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Topic: Damp Repair Query
