how long have you allowed it to cool for? it can take a while before there is any real difference, but to make it easier place a t spoon on water in the ice box part and that should freeze within an hr or so
From my own experience, I’d check the control panel is set to the correct power supply. We now leave ours on A for Automatic so it cools via the leisure battery when we’re driving then flips over to EHU (our gas is left off, so it doesn’t apply).
Quote: Originally posted by Fiona W on 14/4/2022
.... so it cools via the leisure battery when we’re driving ......
To save any confusion (yours and others ), 3 way fridges DO NOT run (cool) off the leisure battery if correctly wired, they take their 12V cooling power from the vehicle Alternator fed supply (which is why 12v cooling only works with engine running). That said, all but very old ones, do also require a 12v supply from the leisure battery for the control panel/electronics regardless of gas/12v/240v cooling option, but that is NOT the cooling power source. They simply draw far too much current to be run (cooled) from any other 12v source than an Alternator on a running engine, be it a MH or towing car with caravan.
Back to OP. Cooling effect is created by heaters (if that doesn't do your head in!), 12v and 240v each have a cartridge heater element, gas perhaps obviously has a flame! The cooling system is common to all three power sources, so if it's working on one, that's good news as that's one potential problem out of the way.
The cartridge heaters do fail, but usually only after many years of service, and are replaceable. I'd be checking MCB's first to see if the one controlling fridge has tripped, fridges are not usually wired via an ordinary mains plug and socket, but it's not unknown, so worth checking that a socket hasn't accidentally been switched off, or the plug hasn't become unplugged. There is often an error code shown on the control panel, how it's displayed depends on the actual fridge model, often only showing flashing lights in a specific pattern, the user manual gives the details of how to read and the fault indicated.
There are further checks you can make, but you're now into checking wiring with meters and taking resistance readings etc. so I won't baffle you with science unless you actually understand what it's all about and can SAFELY play with mains electricity!
You can tell if the heating side of the fridge is working by putting your hand on the top of the top outside fridge vent. You will need a little while after switching it on before you feel it, but you will feel it before the fridge feels cold.
Inside the fridge you will first feel the cold in the walls or floor of the ice box part.
We kept getting the red light, and flashing greens on the mains setting, but only intermittently. This on thetford N3112 on a 2014 caravan. After extensive searches, on here, and on Thetford site. The FAQ for our fridge, predates the LCD display, suggests holding the left, right, and selector buttons together, resulting in an error code, in our case low voltage.
They suggest a range of 195v-259v, but my plugin meter showed 210v. This was morning on a French site, where I’d expect 220v; but of course as breakfast kettles go on it’s quite a draw. It lifted to 215v and the fridge stayed on, thankfully.
Had it in the workshop, the cooling unit was partially blocked which resulted in a new fridge. New fridge now installed. £1242. £990 for fridge, the rest was labour.
As well is two words!
How does a sage know everything about everything? or does he? or does he just think he does?
Remember, if you buy something you bought it, not brought it.
oh dear, very rare for systems to get blocked, you have been very unlucky, I have only just seen this post but my first thought would have been the 240v heater, I had to replace mine
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