I have cupboards above the windows and the damp appears to be from just under the cupboard down to the shelf below the window
im presuming the water is coming in from window rail, so hoping my cupboards are above the rail???
I can remove the board around the windows down to the mug shelf,and rebuild the frame and reboard it, But how far up does the board go? as I cant remove the cupboards
More than likely behind the cupboards as timber is like blotting paper,it travels upwards as well as down. Why can’t the cupboards be removed as they will only be held by screws.
the cupboards are screwed on from the outside and also connected to the side cupboards, think i could make a real mess if i tried to remove them
damp seems to have gone upto just underneath the cupboards, so I was hoping that i could remove the board and frame from the window sill right up to the cupboards
looks like the water is coming in through the screws that hold the window rail on, which i guess will be screwed to part of the frame
I have a Bailey Series 7 and had to remove all the cupboards around the front nearside corner to repair the damage caused on the inside from the awning rail. As said you will come upon screws that cannot be accessed from inside, these have to be carefully cut with a hacksaw blade or multitool. Other fixings are numerous and difficult to get at but it can be done.
However, that being said, although you have damp, it may not have been there long enough to have rotted the internal timbers or ply? I had this too so the first job is to remove all three windows from their rail. Take the bottom screws out of both stays and lift each window up a bit higher than level, it will then come out of the hinge assembly, put it away safely.
With all three out you will see the fixing screws holding the rail on, remove them. With a suitable thin tool very carefully prise the rail away from the body. Use white spirit to help soften the sealant gunge and don't bend the rail of scratch the bodywork. When off, clean the gunge with white spirit, then again with meths to remove the white residue it will leave. You can now see if there are small hairline stress cracks from the screw holes, that's what usually cause the water ingress. A very small hole drilled at the very end of each one will stop them propogating even longer. I sealed mine with a thinnish layer of clear Plumber's Gold sealant and let it cure.
Reseal the hinge with a suitable mastic or liquid sealand and carefully reassemble it back again.
A tip with screws through mastic, it will stick to the screw thread and pull a big knob of it away and degrade the sealing job. After applying mastic on the item to be sealed, cut a small hole in the mastic around each and every screw hole leaving a gap of 2-3mm between the screw and the edge of the mastic, this will stop it adhering to the screw as you tighten it and keep the integrity of the mastic intact. Place some liquid sealant on the thread of each screw beforehand to waterproof the holes.
Good luck, Dave.
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I am not looking forward to cutting out the wall board to fit perfectly, and wondered if it is possible to fit standard 3mm plywood then covering it with a matching paper, rather than using the pre covered wall board?
Failing not being able to buy the matching paper/vinyl, where is the best place to get the wallboard from?
I have found the Ashton board that looks close to what I have in my
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Russelthebus Hi, how did you get on with the front window damp repair, I think I have a similar issue. Did you remove cupboards, if so, how did you do it. Thank you
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Topic: Help! bailey damp around front windows
via mobile 27/3/2024 at 10:56am
