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Subject Topic: Leaking awning rail removal
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via mobile 09/5/2025 at 1:37pm
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Hi, I have a 2014 Sterling Eccles Quartz SE caravan that has a damp patch near the ceiling on the rear side wall(opposite side to my awning) and the caravan engineer thinks it's probably caused by a leaking awning rail screw. I'm going to try and get someone to fix it for me but I'm just checking if my understanding of what needs to be done is correct. I have to remove the plastic beading from the awning rail, this will then give me access to the awning rail retaining screws, I remove those and use a cheese wire in a sawing action to remove the rail from the caravan. When it's removed I clean everything with white spirit, then clean off white residue from that with methylated spirit, I seal around screws and replace them with stainless steel ones if necessary, then use mastic sealing tape to fit awning rail back on. I then buy some 12mm caravan awning rail infill put it in warm water and fit it back into awning rail. Does this sound d about right or am I missing something?   Also has anyone got any tips or tool suggestions for making the job easier or is it quite straightforward? Also any idea how long it would be before I'd see an improvement in my damp meter readings if I solve the leak(damp meter reading currently 58 in an area about 4 inch by 7 inch, rest is dry) Thanks in advance


via mobile 09/5/2025 at 4:00pm
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Although this is not a task I have had to undertake, on occasion when I have needed to clean away old mastic, I have found isopropyl alcohol to be an excellent cleaner fluid. No need to worry about residue left from white spirit, it evaporates quickly leaving a clean surface.


09/5/2025 at 4:18pm
 Location: Near Alton Towers
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I've done three of the four awning rail halves over time and yes, basically it's as you have listed it. A slow messy business with few shortcuts, that's why it costs so much to get 'the professionals' to do it. The roof strap that covers the joint of front/sides/roof/rear is also a big contender for resealing but leaks there usually, (but mot always) show up under the damp area, be it ceiling and/or top of the wall.

Assuming that you have caught the dampness very early, (no actual rot) it will dry out in time, that will depend of a few variables like weather/humidity. The moisture is trapped between aluminium and wallboard vinyl, both of them will retard drying but once properly sealed it will dry.

Do it with another pair of hands so that you don't deform the rail when removing or refitting, plus it will make the job easier/quicker. Mine took a day and a half to two days, start to finish. If you encounter any splits from the screw holes, make them slightly larger as too small a hole or no hole is what causes the split. Drill a very small hole at the end of the split to stop it migrating any farther.

I found that I needed to cut a small hole where each screw goes through the mastic, otherwise the mastic grabs the screw thread and deforms it, use plenty of Sikaflex or whatever to seal the hole/screw.   Good luck.

Dave.

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Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you on experience.
Mark Twain.



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