Hi ya all. A much less complicated way of working out site loading is: find out how many amps are supplied by the site. most are 10amp, or 12amp in some cases 16amp BUT CHECK FIRST. So then divide your appliance watts by the volts. That will equal amps. ie fire 1000 watts devided by 230 volts gives 4.34amps. Add your appliance totals together and provided the combined total is below the amps rating stated for that site you should be ok. Hope this helps. Derek & Jan.
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We heat our van with a 1kw oil filled heater. When we boil the kettle and turn off the fire the heater stays warm and is still warm when it's switched back on. Our kettle is a supermarket 'value' one and 2,200w so not as powerful as a 3kw one. When we started camping we had a low wattage kettle but it took so long to boil we were glad when it gave up the ghost! Worth remembering that fridges are about 500w. We have a list of appliances taped inside the wardrobe in case in a senior moment we need reminding.
Quote: Originally posted by Jan + Del on 19/1/2016... Add your appliance totals together and provided the combined total is below the amps rating stated for that site you should be ok. Hope this helps. Derek & Jan.
Up to a point, that's true.
But as Bob61 stated 5.5 years ago (Blimey, this is an old thread! ) If the site offers a 16A supply, and your equipment total equates to 13A, for example, the site's supply may not trip out, but your own EHU lead could still trip, if it is the most common 10A variety.
We have a low watt kettle (small and slow, but there's only two of us, and we have a lot of patience!) and a fan heater with 750w & 1500w settings.
We started switching the heater off for the kettle... then tried turning it down to the 750 setting when the kettle went on... I'm not saying what we tried next, but thus far, we have got away it!
The EHU lead I had years ago was a 16 amp one as far as I was aware at that time. I no longer have that one but more recently bought another EHU lead that said it was a 16 amp one on the box but when I checked out the MCB (or the RCD whichever) it seemed to be just a 10 amp one.
Consequently I generally treat all campsite supplies as 10 amp and work to that (bearing in mind there are still some sites that only supply about 5 amps). It doesn't make a great deal of difference really. I know the wattage of all my electrical stuff and simply make sure I don't exceed 2300 watts at any one time. I carry a conversion chart with me showing watts to amps in case I forget.
My kettle is a value one from Tesco I think and is 2200 watts. My fan heater is a value Argos one and is 2000 watts so I turn one off when using the other and since the kettle boils fairly quickly that's not a problem.
we have always used a normal kettle the basic type for under a tenner as found in all good supermarkets as well as toaster and other items and never had a problem
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Topic: What`s 10 amp?
) If the site offers a 16A supply, and your equipment total equates to 13A, for example, the site's supply may not trip out, but your own EHU lead could still trip, if it is the most common 10A variety. 
