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Subject Topic: Kitchen tap removal?
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27/9/2009 at 4:27pm
 Location: wigan
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Hi all. We have a Compass Corona 556 and the kitchen tap is leaking after we failed to empty the system last winter (Doh!). The tap is a Reich Trend mixer, and I cannot remove the water feed pipes OR the microswitch wires! The microswitch wires go under the cooker top, and I've pulled at the wire connectors (where they join the main wiring loom) so hard that the plastic coating is being stripped off, but they are not budging. I've been told that the hot and cold water pipes should come away from the tap because they a push fit (?) but again I can't budge them.

Anyone have any experience / advice please? I'm desperate!!

Steve

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Steve Jones


27/9/2009 at 7:35pm
 Location: West Midlands
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Don't know, but I'd imagine the microswitch lead connector would have lugs which would need to be sqeezed together to enable disconnection, as on many car leads.   No idea about the pipes though, sorry!


27/9/2009 at 8:29pm
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Thanks for that Bob. I'm not quite sure what you mean? The wires from the tap and the wires from the main loom both go into a narrow red plastic sleeve and I'd assumed they both had a tiny spade end on them which is hidden inside the plastic sleeve...what would I squeeze exactly?

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Steve Jones


27/9/2009 at 9:50pm
 Location: West Midlands
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If it's a rigid plastic connector, look for a tab on opposite sides which could be pressed in with an electrical screwdriver or similar. If it's flexible plastic I'd be inclined to cut it off and replace it with tape later, but do you actually need to disconnect the switch i.e. would it be easier to disconnect the pump or for that matter the battery, while working on the tap?


27/9/2009 at 9:57pm
 Location: west country
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I have a compass 482 and couldn't figure this out either. Fortunately mine was under guarantee so I took it back to the dealer. Doesn't help you but might help to know you are not the only one!

Steve



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Steve




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27/9/2009 at 11:53pm
 Location: West Midlands
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Just found this via Google which may be helpful if its the same model tap. Don't know if link will work but try   http://www.howtomendit.com/answers.php?id=239768


28/9/2009 at 12:46am
 Location: West Midlands
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No, link's not working, but the tap under discussion had a small "bubble" under the handle (at the front) which when prised off gave access to a hex-headed screw (2.5mm Allen key) which retains the tap head. Removal gave access to the cartridge held in place by a nut. Cartridge had suffered frost damage to internal washers and ceramic plate and would cost about £11-£16 to replace. The two locating points on the bottom of the cartridge should be carefully aligned to avoid overtightening and breakage.        This information was courtesy of "Rowantree - Autosleeper Fan" on the above mentioned website. If your tap is similar hope this is of some help!


28/9/2009 at 10:00am
 Location: wigan
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Thanks all for your replies. I will look again at the tap external body for flaps and hidden screws but I think there are none similar to those suggested. The only one I can see is a TINY screw (looks like a crosshead but it is minute) which is at the base of the spout and very difficult to access. This is in fact where the water leaks from when the tap is turned on.
The biggest issue is access - everything is an arm's stetch away inside a tiny cupboard or under the hob! I think the next thing is to disconnect the gas and remove the hob, which will improve access to the wires. But I'd hoped to avoid this further potential for problems...

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Steve Jones


28/9/2009 at 10:04am
 Location: wigan
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Just to reply to your point Bob, I would happily chop the wires and rejoin them later, but their is absolutely no spare length to play with! It's a crazy setup. If I remove the hob then I'll be able to chop and insert more wire if needed more easily, but that's a last resort.
Thanks again!

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Steve Jones


11/10/2009 at 7:24pm
 Location: wigan
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Many thanks for all the helpful replies - finally got sorted so thought I'd post details that might help others... in the end I had to lever the hob up to about 45 degrees, which gave me better access to the wiring. Then I cut them and later rejoined them with a simple plastic connector (don't know the proper name). I finally managed to detach the water supply pipes, but only because I removed the sink so I again get some purchase on the pipes. So with the tap off I was able to see that the leak was actually caused by a tiny hairline crack in the spout - £8 later and it was sorted. Took 30 mins to put everything back in place. Motto - if access is poor then don't procrastinate - dismantle enough to get good access and the job is much easier! Thanks again all.

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Steve Jones



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