I expect you know this but in case you don't the 13A sockets etc only work off 230V not the battery.
Is the RCD switch in the up position? If it isn't push it up, if it stays up push the test button to ensure it trips.If it won't latch in in the up position that would indicate an earth fault in the 230 V circuit/appliance.
For all intents and purposes you can ignore the reverse polarity, that only tells you that the neutral and live are transposed.
saxo1
Thanks for your advice we’ll have to test it properly as the site we stayed on was a farm and my partner said it looked like the electric hook up point had been taped up previously
Martindale or Sockit and see socket testers sometimes have an RCD test mode which simulate RCD faults. (There are others but they are two manufactures I personally trust). They are not expensive and also show you faults in the wiring as well as polarity. I personally am never without one.
A proper RCD tester that an test electrician will have when signing off an electrical installations are more advanced and will show the time that an RCD will operate at in fault situations but are expensive and are best considered overkill for people in our situation.
Recent regulations circa 2010 say for mobile mains installations the breakers and RCD must be double pole. For the RCD it must be a type A so it can cope with pulsing DC currents such as supplied by an inverter or inverter generator.
Quote: Originally posted by Shackbob on 04/3/2023
Recent regulations circa 2010 say for mobile mains installations the breakers and RCD must be double pole. For the RCD it must be a type A so it can cope with pulsing DC currents such as supplied by an inverter or inverter generator.
Interesting. I’m not sure that’s regulation with MCBs though huh? Single pole MCBs are common place
In all our years of camping I have never needed a longer lead than what comes with the unit when. You buy it. I have cut the long lead off and added another plug. And socket that is nothing the tent to stop have to pull the long leed thru the cable zip. Quick and easy job if you are competent to do so your self.
When I was a tenter, my roller EHU kit had a 15m cable, and I had only needed to use an extension cable once when I was directed to pitch on a pitch without an EHU pillar within reach by the warden.
He advised for the joint of the two cables to be placed above the ground over a hedge, so that it could not be submerged in water. That risk was low to start with as the weather forecast was for a dry, sunny and cold Easter weekend back in 2013.
Joint protectors exist, however, I have not used one and cannot vouch for their claims to be waterproof when it is submerged under water. Personally I would not risk it.
DK
------------- Apple The Campervan - A Van For Work, Rest & Play!
- 2027: ? NL+DE+FR
- 2026: FR+DE
- 2025: 17/77
'24: 10/49; '23: 9/47;'22: 8/46; '21: 9/34
* Ex-tenter
* Treat life events like a dog: if you can't eat it, play with it or hump it, p1$$ on it and walk away!
I think somewhere over 90% of the time a 15m lead will be fine, BUT there may be a time when 25m is needed on sites with unconventional layout! Sites sometimes mention long EHU lead needed, but nothing stopping you asking the site.
Certainly with my caravan, been on a number of sites where a 2 socket bollard is behind one pitch and shared with neighbouring pitch, needed all 25m then! Been on another site where EHU has been a row of posts along centre of field, with mixed tent/caravan/MH pitches around perimeter, and 25m definitely needed then!
The reason that sites (and wise users!) don't like joined leads is the standard blue 16A plugs and sockets are NOT waterproof, only splashproof in certain orientation, lying on the ground in heavy rain, there is a risk of puddles, even flowing water saturating them, making them unsafe and/or tripping EHU breaker! Used correctly, they are always off the ground, and orientated to prevent splash water ingress.
And wrapping the connectors in a plastic bag almost certainly does NOT make them waterproof, but also introduces a condensation risk of wetting them as well! You can get purpose made covers with sealed entry/exit/joints, which look OK, but I've NEVER seen one with any testing/approval to verify they are truly safe to use! I recall one camper proudly posting photos of his DIY efforts with a Ice Cream type tub as his solution to a waterproof housing - he was somewhat deflated when countless people pointed out what he'd really done was put his connector in a bucket, and waiting for the rain to fill it, as no seals to stop water getting in!!! If inclined to use a joint, then raising it off the ground is wise to say the least!
A 25m lead can be a bit of a PITA if whole length not needed (actually applies to any lead length really), excess lead MUST NOT be left tightly coiled in use and needs to be laid out loosely on the ground. Left tightly coiled, (cable drums are the worse case) it risks overheating and becoming both a fire and electrical hazard through heat damage. When only a short lead needed, trying to 'lose' an excess 15m or so of cable, then wind it up afterwards without kinks, is a time you ask yourself why have I got this oh so long lead!!!!
Outwell now do a sealed plug and socket case.not sure on how it holds up as I don't have one or have any need for one.
Looks good quality thou and was only around £12 I think.
During the past 20 odd years that I have used electric I have only twice needed the full length of my 25 metre EHU lead, but on those two occasions I would have been stuck without it.
A shorter lead may save a few pennies and be easier to pack, but in my opinion is false economy.
Quote: Originally posted by Somersetcamping on 26/6/2025
Outwell now do a sealed plug and socket case.not sure on how it holds up as I don't have one or have any need for one.
Looks good quality thou and was only around £12 I think.
I've got a different branded one that is near identical, but Outwell claim IP44 protection rating (mine is unrated AFAIK, but I suspect just as efficient, or inefficient if you prefer!), which is really rather ironic as the standard 16A plugs and sockets are in themselves also IP44 rated (which is 'Splash Resistant'), so the 'Cable Safety Box' doesn't really increase the water resistance rating!
Quote: Originally posted by Bernie47 on 26/6/2025
During the past 20 odd years that I have used electric I have only twice needed the full length of my 25 metre EHU lead, but on those two occasions I would have been stuck without it.
A shorter lead may save a few pennies and be easier to pack, but in my opinion is false economy.
It’s not about saving pennies. I literally cannot find a 2.5 mm/ 25m hook up cable I’d buy one in a heartbeat if I knew where to get one from.
Quote: Originally posted by Somersetcamping on 26/6/2025
Outwell now do a sealed plug and socket case.not sure on how it holds up as I don't have one or have any need for one.
Looks good quality thou and was only around £12 I think.
Just had a look at that one. it only works with Outwell leads which is a bit s**t.
To minimise having to wind out the 25m cable from its wheel when the EHU pillar is close by, I also carry a 5m and a 10m cable.
The 10m has been used quite often, 5m only a couple of time since I got my van in April 2021.
BTW, the pitch where I needed to use an extension cable placed over a hedge was a jumbo grass pitch near the facilities block at the top of a sloping field with a great view. Sadly, it has been turned into a hardstanding pitch along with a number of grass pitches on that field, the site was Salisbury C&CC and it opens all year round nowadays.
DK
------------- Apple The Campervan - A Van For Work, Rest & Play!
- 2027: ? NL+DE+FR
- 2026: FR+DE
- 2025: 17/77
'24: 10/49; '23: 9/47;'22: 8/46; '21: 9/34
* Ex-tenter
* Treat life events like a dog: if you can't eat it, play with it or hump it, p1$$ on it and walk away!
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