We really want to go down to the Languedoc in May, for some rest and relaxation and to explore the Cathar castles and Carcassonne. Can anyone recommend any sites within suitable striking distance of the key sites?
Our son will be 18 months old so we don't need loads of whistles and bells but do need to have some space to toddle about and a play area/swings would be helpful. A small pool is always nice but not essential. We have three weeks to take and because of the small person's stamina, sight-seeing can't be more than one-day-on-one-day-off so it would be good to find a site that's worth hanging out on, which is where personal recommendations do help!
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For Carcassonne I would suggest Camping de la Cite, I am sure there must be a report on here. Its within walking distance of the old City and a short car drive from the main town. The last time we were near Carcassonne we made the mistake of using a campsite a little way out and it was not that good.
We stayed at la Cite and could walk up to the mediaevil city which was great as it avoided the queues for the car parks. We weren't too impressed with what we saw of the modern town but the old one wa well worth a visit. I think it might be an ACSI card site.
The pitches on the site were quite big and some had a view of the old city which is lit up at night but I really don't rtemember much more about the site, free wifi in the bar, I think.
We stayed at Domaine d'Arnauteille - there are several reviews on this website. It's well-placed for visiting Carcassonne and other Cathar castles, has excellent shower blocks and a superb swimming pool.
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Thanks for the ideas. I'm really looking for somewhere to spend a couple of weeks so the Cite campsite is probably not for us (would be great if it was just the 2 of us touring all the time though).
Maybe we'll have to do a 2-centre trip to get the sight-seeing and the chill-out location?
Just a warning that the roads in the area of Peyreperteuse, Queribus, Montsegur and other Cathar castles are very winding and somewhat tortuous. It can take a long time to get from one to the other. I know because our friend has a house between Auriac (a very ruined Cathar stronghold - no on the main 'radar') and Chateau d'Arques (another less ruined, and easier access which looks strangely like a face with a horrified expression) and it takes hours to get from his house to anywhere else!
I don't think Camping de la Cite would be my choice with a small child. However, perhaps jwalani's suggestion is a good one. You're within striking distance, in a nice area, and the site now takes the ACSI card at 15 euros per night - with no charge for the little one. An alternative would be to find a site, near to Perpignan perhaps on the beach - or Le Haras (which takes Camping Cheques and is a lovely 'floral' site with good facilities) and then travel from there up the D117 to Queribus and Peyreperteuse at least, but you've also got the seaside element for the little one.
If you do visit Queribus then the little village of Cucugnan is also worth a stop - with a walk up to the windmill at the top of the village (lovely coffees from the bakery there) - and great views towards the castle. There are some nice little Auberges, too, in the village.
When we stayed with our friend in December 2009 we had the first snow in that area for twelve years and the first heavy fall for about fifty - so we've got photos of Queribus in brilliant sunshine (on our first day) and under about eight inches of snow a couple of days later! We've also been during our summer holidays, too, of course!
When we visited Carcassonne the first time, in 1993, with our first caravan, we stayed at Le Martinet Rouge, at Brousses le Villaret, north of Carcassone. It took about 20 minutes to drive to Carcassone, and we found it a very relaxing site. It does look to have changed somewhat - when we visited it had only a very large inflatable pool, and now has a 'proper' one, but it's nearish to Carcassone and perhaps more 'child-friendly' than Camping de la Cite.
Val, thanks for your thoughts and the warning about tortuous roads. If last summer in Burgundy (when son was 9 months) is anything to go by, we can manage to day trip up to 2 hours away from our campsite - he sleeps in the car and then stays up until we go to bed later, so it works quite well for us. So long as we don't do that every day, he's a very portable and adaptable little chap, even now at nearly 15 months (here's hoping that, apart from toddling, there's not too much change to that between now and May!).
At the moment, I'm thinking about a 2 centre trip (we have 24 days, including travel time), maybe staying at Val D'Aleth (Alet-les-Bains), as a base to see some of the castles and Carcassonne and also at Les Criques de Porteils, down on the coast at Collioure for a bit of the seaside and some good fish restaurants. We prefer to avoid big sites (the one at Collioure is huge to my mind with 250 pitches) and are happiest in a simple field, so long as there are hot showers!
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We've driven past Val d'Alet several times, and had a closer look at the site once. It looks quite hemmed in by the valley - quite shaded - but in a good situation as far as the Cathar castles are concerned, and is probably the nearest site to our friend's house. The run down from there to Carcassonne is easy I must admit - and also the route to Chateau d'Arques. From there to Peyrepetuese would take about an hour and a half, I would guess - and a bit more to Queribus. It looks no distance on a map, but takes for ever.
Have a good one - it's a lovely, if somewhat unvisited, area! We may be there in the spring/summer, fitting a kitchen for our friend! If so, then do call in!
Have a look at Le Guide Officiel Caravanning Camping - there are thousands more sites in there - all 11,000 odd French campsites, apart from what seem to be largely British owned one. A municipal site somewhere may suit you - and there are loads to be found.
I have a 2009 copy of the Caravan Club France guide which I need to have a good look through. We mostly use it for unplanned overnighting, but I must look as part of my planning-ahead too!
It is so helpful to have an idea of timings to those castles. Thank you. That sounds do-able.
not that tortuous depends on your comparisons steady travel up to 40mph is ok most of the time latour de france has a decent site the warden is a chirpy chappy and very friendly site is better than all the others up the valley also suitable for tautavel prehistoric village village has a festival weekend in late july and latour has a musical festival at about the same time
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As far as the roads are concerned, I suppose it's where you're coming from, or going to. Our friend lives at Savignan, a tiny hamlet in the middle of nowhere, bounded in the south by the D117 and in the north by the D613, which are both fine roads, but to his house, and then on from his house the road to Auriac and then on to Peyreperteuse is about as tortuous as it can be and probably 20mph is the maximum speed! The other way, towards Albieres and then on to Couiza and Carcassonne is also winding, but once you get on to the D613 is fine. From Peyreperteuse onwards to Queribus is easier, but the back road to Rennes le Chateau via Sougraigne from our friend's house is also somewhat tortuous! If you're going 'cross-country', from the Carcassonne side, then you'll meet tortuous roads, but from a site near Perpignan then the route up to Queribus and on to Peyreperteuse is fine.
Not a campsite recommendation but if you are visiting the area and Cathar sites then Lastours - easy 20 minute drive north from Carcassonne - is a must, absolutely stunning - just put lastours into google images to get an idea.
We have stayed at le Crique de P at Collieres and at Domaine D'Arnauteuille in last couple of years in June. The beaches at le Crique are all down steep steps so think of that with a toddler and are not large or sandy...if there's a wind of the sea as there often is there there's no beach at all! if you do go ask for a sea view site as we found the ones down in the centre looked rather gloomy, though you do get the wind by the sea!
Domaine de A has a lovely pool area but very hot. You'll need an umbrella as when we were there there was no shade and no umbrellas provided. It's q fair walk up and down to the pool there.
Thanks for the tips. I'm not too worried about the steps at Le Crique - we use slings all the time and would carry him up and down strapped to us.
That's one of the reasons we want to do Cathar castles this year - before he gets too big to carry up and down steps and inclines easily and before we have to give in to too much small-child-entertainment (he really is happy at the moment just going to see different people and places).
The roads up to the castles are pretty scary. At least one was. Can't remember which now. I had to turn around and come back down again. I wouldn't recommend trying if your little one starts crying!
We've stayed at Domaine d'arnateuille and thought it was lovely. Sadly we were right next to the play area so I can assure you its pretty good. The loo block was roman themed and enormous. The pools were good too and the evening entertainment was fun - line dancing in dutch! Didn't think the walk to the pool was too bad - my youngest was 3 at the time. The boys liked Carcassonne as well and there is a good reservoir (bassin de st ferreol) within easy driving distance where you can paddle/swim or boat if you want. If you are happy in a simpler site though I would echo the idea of looking in the guide officiel. Lots of excellent municipals. We stayed in Castres which is further north but has a pool and is built in the middle of a huge park with brilliant playgrounds.
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Topic: Cathar Castles /Languedoc
