Could someone please tell me where to find the reset button for this heater. The heater works perfectly on gas (green light on constant) but when on the electricty, after a few seconds the red light also comes on and won't heat. I have the van in my drive and connected up to house power supply. I have read online that the heater needs to be reset and there is a red reset button, but a cover at or near the heater needs to be removed to access it. For the life of me i cant find it. There is no reset on my heater on/off control.
Anyone have any ideas.
Thanks
David
The reset button for the water heater is located at the back of the heater tank their will be a (white) plastic cover the electric cables go into, on this cover on the flat face their is a little red button near the bottom push this in and it shall reset the trip. If this does not work the red button may not be making contact with the trip switch and you will need to take the cover off to check MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT CONECTED TO THE MAINS AND I ALWAYS PULL THE FUSE AS WELL before takeing the cover off as you are right in to live cables behind the cover. If not confident around electricity get some help from someone qualified.
The only place i can see a cable going into is a black rectangular box under the water cylinder. The cylinder has nothing at the back and it is encased in polystyrene for insulation.The black box has a label on it reading "Do not remove as this will invalidate your gaurentee".Not a problem for me as the van must be about twenty years old. I couldnt open it if i wanted to as i cant move it from under the water cylinder.
http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t598/calicoshmalico/IMG_0506_zps797b4077.jpg
Im getting a bit frustrated by this now, am i missing something really simple.
I have now discovered that the black box in the picture is the Burner Module, but how do i fix the Over Temp Thermostat to stop the Red light coming on. Strangely enough, I have the operating instructions for the Cascade 2 (found them in the van) and it mentions the reset button in the centre of the electrical connection box. Thing is i dont seem to have said e/c box. I could just use it on the gas as it works fine, but i want it to be working with the site supply.
So i need to find out what to replace to make it work.
Anyone know???
Hi
Not sure how old your cascade 2 is but I have one and it only runs on gas. In the instructions it says there is a cascade 2 ge model also which I take means gas & electric. Could yours be the old one like mine .my caravan is a 1992 model.
sounds like you have a gas only model, could be that if the original was duel fuel it was replaced at some time. A unit with an electric element would definitely have the main power supply being fed in to a plastic box at the rear of the water boiler. If you are wanting to convert the unit to electric you could try picking up a "spares or repairs unit of eBay and change the main boiler tank this is not to hard a job but i would get a new set of seals as well. you would of course have to trace the original mains supply and wire it in. A bit of a project but nothing to bad.
I think if my system is gas only then ill just keep it that way. This will be my first season using a caravan, so ill just have to get used to how much gas i would actually use for heating water and cooking.
Thanks for everyones replys.
I think there is some confusion here? have a read of this;
The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have 'tripped' Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled 'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a ΒΌ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away.
Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system.
Im hoping someone can help. I too have the carver cascade 2. When powered on mains power i have a green light and no issues and it heats perfectly fine. However on gas with no power connected it makes a buzzing sound quite loudly and the light stays green at all times but as soon as i turn on the tap for the water to come out 3 seconds later the red light comes on with the green. Any help please?.
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Topic: Cascade 2 Water Heater
