Well we're getting on ok with the caravan . Just one issue though... where we have to store it at home requires that I reverse partly round a corner, slightly uphill. We then finish swivelling by hand and push her in.
I read on another post that this shouldn't be done as it will be reversing with the caravan's overrun brake on - is that so? If it is, how the heck do I get it backed round enough to take over by hand?
The last time I did it, I didn't get her round far enough and the hitch was compressed (is that the right description) and so of course when hubby freed it the hitch made an attempt to make friends with the car bumper - fortunately it didn't quite succeed. Methinks some wood offcuts to make chocks from might go on the shopping list!
------------- Turning to caravanning from camping due to health. Got the van May 2011 - see images!
I have a mover fitted to my 1984 van and could not do without it.
Most movers can be transferred to another van or removed and sold on as they hold their price very well
John
Re the compression of the tow hitch one way to overcome this is when you have finished reversing, apply the caravan handbrake and then let the car roll forward to stretch the hitch out.
I read on another post that this shouldn't be done as it will be reversing with the caravan's overrun brake on - is that so? If it is, how the heck do I get it backed round enough to take over by hand?
Yes that is right and the caravan handbrake doesn't operate as efficiently when the draw bar is pushed in but firstly you need to know how it functions to understand the mechanics behind it. Behind the hitch is a draw bar (shaft) that slides back and forth which operates the caravan brakes simultaneously. When the towcar pulls the caravan it pulls the draw bar out in order to release the brakes. When the towcar brakes, the caravan then pushes against the towbar which in turn compresses the draw bar and operates the caravan brakes. So this is the evidence that when the draw bar is compressed it operates the caravan brakes which you don't want. All you have to do is pull the hitch forward by hand but it will take a bit of force to to do or you could use the towcar to do this before you unhitch. The way to do it is slightly apply the caravan handbrake first and just drive the car forward enough to pull the draw bar out fully then apply the caravan handbrake fully. When you unhitch, the caravan will then remain stationary. You then move the caravan by hand by releasing the caravan handbrake with the draw bar pulled out. If you are on an incline then you are best to use some chocks for assistance whilst maneuvring.
I've never had any problems arise from reversing uphill. As Zafiral says, when you've gone as far as you're going, apply the caravan handbrake, chock the wheels, and let the car roll forward enough to uncompress the hitch.
Jeff is quite right and I have one of those fitted behind my towball too but I have the stainless steel one as it not only stronger but they don't rust either. After a couple of years the black steel type starts to rust which makes the towbar look a bit unsightly.
Richard.....So it looks like the plate with two holes is permanently bolted behind the towball and then the vee plate just slots in between the two and removed after hitching up? If it is then this is a brilliant idea and I admit that I have never seen them before. Good price too.
On my Honda Civic (2 cars ago), I had a flange towball, with a black slot-in protector plate. From memory it had two washers to space the towbar and the fitting.
Quote: Originally posted by treble on 10/7/2011
Well we're getting on ok with the caravan . Just one issue though... where we have to store it at home requires that I reverse partly round a corner, slightly uphill. We then finish swivelling by hand and push her in.
I read on another post that this shouldn't be done as it will be reversing with the caravan's overrun brake on - is that so? If it is, how the heck do I get it backed round enough to take over by hand?
The last time I did it, I didn't get her round far enough and the hitch was compressed (is that the right description) and so of course when hubby freed it the hitch made an attempt to make friends with the car bumper - fortunately it didn't quite succeed. Methinks some wood offcuts to make chocks from might go on the shopping list!
There is no problem reversing a caravan as the brakes are designed to disengage when reversing how ever if you need to unhitch on a downhill slope you need to put the van hand brake on & REVERSE the car slightly to engage the hand brake fully( it will move to a vertical position) you will then need to let the car run forwards to extend the drawbar to release the hitch. But to be safe always chock the wheels before you unhitch
Thanks everyone - some useful information there about how the braking works.
A motor mover really is not an option, no dosh left having bought the towcar and caravan this year. It's only a problem at home - it's really just a case of getting the best routine sorted. I think the bumper protector is a good idea, but I already have a cycle carrier behind the towbar (Witter's own) so not sure if I can add anything else - might pop back to the place that fitted it and ask, they might even stick one on gratis for me!
------------- Turning to caravanning from camping due to health. Got the van May 2011 - see images!
Amazing family weekend with old steam engines, classic car displays, market stalls, and full catering and bar. And camping on site - Save £25 by booking in advance.
Topic: Reversing outfit uphill
. Just one issue though... where we have to store it at home requires that I reverse partly round a corner, slightly uphill. We then finish swivelling by hand and push her in. 
