when we light fire with the gas and put blowers on it is great
but isnt the heating meant to work with elecric only aswell
the light doesnt light up on thermostat
also a different problem
when we run the kitchen taps the hose leaks just b4 taps in bathroom but if we run the bathroom aswell as kitchen no leaks this has me confused please any1 help
the blow air heating on electric is pretty useless.we have had a few vans and its the same in all.on gas you can get some warm air blowing out-but not much.if you have it on gas the electric light wont be on.hubby says you can have it on both-gas and electric-you might have better luck doing that.
as for the taps leaking it sounds like your pressure could be too high.iwander if you have a micro switch-im not an expert -perhaps someone else will come along who knows more.good luck with it
Please don't try using both gas and electric! it'll burn your elements out! Our last van was an Abbey and we used to warm the van up on gas first, then turn onto electric. but only in winter when really cold.
For electric, make sure the dial on the wall is set to max, ie 9, and the power supply to top, ie 2000W, and on the actual heater switch, set it to "~", not Auto, and set the fan speed low, ie 1 or 2. The faster you have the air blowing over the heating element the less chance it has to heat up. Also, close off the bathroom vent. The heat is better in your van.
The blown air heating in Our Coachman has been satisfactory on electric so far. To get the heat where we want it, we do open and close individual vents.
During May and June this year in Cornwall, the bad weather made the awning necessary to heat in the evenings. The site owner had banned the use of free-standing electric fan heaters (claimed it was a H&S imposition), so we used the external blown air outlet on the van, and closed all the internal ones. By setting this in operation well before we were going to sit in the awning, it got quite warm.
My Avondale works great on gas or electric for the blown air heating - even in the depths of winter I've only used it on gas if we haven't had EHU. When on electric the heater itself doesn't get hot as it does with gas, but the van soon warms up.
If fllowing Marks' advice doesn't work then I would get it checked by a dealer.
------------- Caz
If you can't see the light at the end of the tunnel, just keep going till you go round the bend.
I can only agree with Mark and Caz, the electric heating should work well unless something is amiss. On the Truma heater the most common problem is lack of a 'remote temperature sensor' or if fitted, where it is sited.
You should get the green light lit if mains power is reaching the control board at the back of the fire, make sure the isolation switch is switched on first then.
If still no light, I would then suspect a fault on the control board, the light and the rest of the control curcuit is 12 volt but this is supplied via a transformer on the control board and they are known to fail.
we have a 2000 coacman amara and a few months ago our electrical part of the fire was stuck on
even when the control panel was turned of the fire was still on it turns out that the relays fitted in the fire were at fault and it is a common problem
we went to maplins and bought 3 16 amp relays and poped them on the pcb board and since then no problems with sticking relays
Make sure all the pipes on the back of the heater are connected ok. Also there is a cold air pack on some trumas. There is a pipe at the back of the van which connects to the outside, usually through the floor - there is a flap switch which opens and closes the pipe (as with the awning warmers). It sound like your electric aint connected if you have no light. No light can mean (Gary knows more than me though..) -
1. There is no power supply to the ultraheat (the electric element) - check the isolator switch and fuses
2. The little cable which runs from the thermos to the heater has come adrift - a common fault. Just make sure it plugged in tight by giving it a wiggle if its not come out completely. If its just the bulb then you will still get heat.
What should happen is that when you switch the dial to 500, 1000 or 2000 then you get a green light. Then you move the thermostat to your desired temp. In ours, to get a warm but not sweltering night, 5-6 is great with no fan.
You can get decent blown air but like some have said, keep it low and close off vents. We only have one vent in each end of the van and then you get great hot blasts from each vent. It will work on A - auto but it takes longer - put the element on highest, wait until its belting out then put the van on.
Oh, Its nice to see that someone agrees awning warmers work if you use your head.
We close off all our vents and the awning warmer blows out some nice heat into the awning. I retro fitted both the ultraheat and the awning warmer and it was money well spent.
I think ultraheats are the must for winter vanning - silent and safe heating on thermostat. Even in summer we have ours on thermos in case of a cold night - hate waking up with a cold nose!
Can anyone explain how to get to the control board ?
Also, Sean, which end of the cable heater to thermostat is likely to have come adrift?
As you will realise, we have this as an unresolved problem, our dealer will repair at next service (at a price) but wont give any suggestions as to cause and Truma booklet doesnt offer much help.
Any help in dismantling testing and reassembly would be appreciated.
Hi
Posted a message on here a few months back about are blow heating not working on electric. We also have an abbey aventura it was serviced last month and they found that the was a fault in the control pannel, we needed a new pannel but luckily it was covered by the warranty.
It now works fine and it actually gets to warm in the van if you are not careful
Quote: Originally posted by littlejack40 on 07/8/2007
Can anyone explain how to get to the control board ?
Also, Sean, which end of the cable heater to thermostat is likely to have come adrift?
As you will realise, we have this as an unresolved problem, our dealer will repair at next service (at a price) but wont give any suggestions as to cause and Truma booklet doesnt offer much help.
Any help in dismantling testing and reassembly would be appreciated.
little jack
If you look at the back of the control panel (the thermostat on the wall) there is a thin cable coming out of the back - make sure this is firmly in - then follow it to the back of the heater and again there is a connector to check. It is a very straight forward assembly as far as the thermos is concerned. Ive fitted one of these as an upgrade - fiddly, but not a lot of parts to it. Drop me an email at patersse at aol.com and we can chat.
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Topic: electric blow heating help please
