There are several possible reasons for it to pack up like this, one that springs to mind i one of the thermostats has packed up, what I doubt it will be is element failure. Another possible that I've just sorted is if there is a remote temp sensor fitted and it's somehow worked it's way loose, this can reconnect the orginal sensor while the remote is still connected, with two connected it will stop the elements being switched on
Beyond that, I have a different take on how the fire should be used on electric and why it does not always do as it should:-
The Ultraheat’s wattage settings are there so you can make use of low amperage hookups, 500W for 6A, 1000W for 10A and 2000W for 16A hookups, their not there to adjust the temperature of the van.
The Ultralheat is thermostatically controlled, therefore the wattage used will simply mean the fire is heating for shorter or longer periods. Where the problems arise then is if the temperature control is not working correctly, this is often due to the heat from the elements directly affecting the sensor itself. This means the heat brings the temperature sensor up to that set on the dial and the elements switch off, you and the vans are still cold but the sensors toasty and takes forever to cool before switching the fire back on!!
Due to this and particularly overnight, it's become something of an urban myth to set it at 500w or 1000w, this or that number on the dial and fan speed setting. In truth what's happening is the available heat is not capable of reaching the set temperature so never switches off, it's a useful work around but not how it should work.
The real solution is to fit a ‘remote’ temperature sensor and attach it to the gas fires sensor, if a remote is already fitted, it to will usually react better if moved to this location.
I would suggest as a start and during the day, the wattage selected is as high as the hook up allows and then fan speed set to maximum on ‘A’.
This provides the maximum heat if required and the fans speed will respond automatically to change in temperature, ie, fast when heat cycle is on and slow when heat is off.
After that you can fine tune to suit your own needs
Other problems concern the control board, the elements are switched on and off by relays and the contacts burn out particularly the 2kw relay.
The 12v for control also comes from this board and the transformer sometimes packs up for no apparent reason but possibly because of a mains voltage spike. Apart from no heat, you will lose the green light in the switch if this happens
Lastly and also if no heat is forth coming, there are two safety thermostats, one at least of these has a habit of self destruction which stops all heating on electric!
The control switch itself seems generally reliable but the odd one does fail.
The numbers on the dial represent roughly 4degs and 9 is 32degs or thereabouts, this in theory makes 6 or 7 'normal' but it's what feels comfortable that matters not the number.
Another problem not caused by the heater itself is long runs of un-insulated blown air pipe running outside under the floor, insulating this will improve matters considerable.
Everything installed and working as it should, there is no good reason why the electric heating should not work very well and keep an even temperature to suit your needs.
However, it must be remembered the van needs to be warmed through thoroughly before the heating is turned down, while the vans cold it will constantly drag heat from the air and this needs constant topping up or the van will always feel draughty. It's most useful then to use gas as well for the first couple of hours and if the heating is off during the day to turn it back on at the first sign of a chill.
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Topic: Truma Heater - Problem
