Our new Powrtouch mover has arrived today, which weather permitting I will install at the weekend - I was just looking for advice on where people normally position the isolation switch?
My thoughts so far are that it needs to be easy accesible to cut power in an emergency (suggesting externally?!?) it can' t go in the gas locker as electric and gas don't mix... it also can't go in the battery locker since it is on the side of the caravan, which is parked tight against the wall of the house when stored and so inaccessible... we don't have a boot locker or anything similar, the battery is front right of the van, door back left so could't really get much further apart, and the instructions recommend keeping the cabling as short as possible... so a bit of a conundrum... any sugestions most gratefully received.
Mine's in the bat. box but that wont work so sugest you mount under the floor, front left corner perhaps, but inside a plastic sandwich box or somilar with a snap on lid......Mick
Have you thought about using a relay to do the switching and then you could place the switch where ever you wanted as the relay could then be placed where ever it is most effective and with the shortest cable run for the heavy duty cable. The idea of a wireless remote switch activating a solenoid did cross my mind but that might introduce too many complexities into what should be a simple switch. Try RS components or similar to see if they have anything suitable.
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Quote: Originally posted by Paul B on 26/1/2011...My thoughts so far are that it needs to be easy accesible to cut power in an emergency (suggesting externally?!?) ..... it also can't go in the battery locker since it is on the side of the caravan, which is parked tight against the wall of the house when stored and so inaccessible...
My van is parked like yours; therefore my cut-off switch is located under a seat inside, next to the battery box. What sort of emergency (or urgent access) do you envisage that would prevent you from going in the van, lifting the seat and switching off? If external access is definitely a must, do you have a cassette toilet with an outside hatch, and could the switch be fitted in there? In my case, the toilet hatch is still on the same side as the battery box, so wouldn't work for me.....
Gram
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when the fitter put our mover in he fitted the isolator switch in the bed box at the front,this was a pain as you needed to climb over everything to turn it on and off.i added an extra switch into the battery compartment and this works well.for obvious reasons it should not go into the gas box area.you could fit it under the floor on a metal bracket and fit a thick wood box round it to keep out the weather. if this is the isolator then the hole size to drill for the neck of the switch is 7/8 inch or 22.19 mm
click on
Post last edited on 26/01/2011 23:19:48
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Thanks for all the comments - seems as though I was missing the point. It is an isolator rather than emergency cut-out, therefore positioning it externally is unneccesary. Think I'm actually going to put it on the inside face of the battery box - I can then operate it from inside the van, the terminals will stick through into the battery compartment with their rubber covers over the terminals.
Thanks for all the comments - seems as though I was missing the point. It is an isolator rather than emergency cut-out, therefore positioning it externally is unneccesary. Think I'm actually going to put it on the inside face of the battery box - I can then operate it from inside the van, the terminals will stick through into the battery compartment with their rubber covers over the terminals.
Thanks to all for your comments,
Paul
Hi I had mine fitted though the front into gas locker from under bed(terminals inside /switch key in locker) as have no access to switch if in battery box, as van stored on drive and battery box side against wall,also had small light fitted(visual reminder) to show when isolation switch was on,(blew mover CB when mover on and AC power connected.
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Thats where I have my switch fitted, same as sjgillett. There was a small circular imprint on the housing, but I did have to make up a spacer to move the switch inwards a little to make connecting the EHU plug in easier. I also have the key attatched with a flat trainer lace to the battery holding strap so as not to loose it.
your still going to need to get to a switch to turn it on and off, as the system will auto shut down when you finish using it, so you will need a normal on/off switch to operate the unit. you canhave the isolator switch also, and just keep that on.
how about putting something just inside the door. put down low. get something that has a cover, so you need to lift the cover to switch on/off.
As you have a mover, you could rotate the van so the battery box faces outwards.
I hope you have a cross actuation bar if the van is that tight to a wall!!!
Hi, Van is 6ft 6inch wide, wall to house wall 91/2ft, if van turned no accsess to van door, and id dose have the cross actuation bar, did have isolating switch in battery box, and it was fitted profesionaly,explained to fitter before fitting switch that van would be against wall and would be unable to accsess it when van in position, and would not be able to switch off the mover power.the manufacturer said that mover could be left on and would do no harm. Turned out that the AC mains grid fluctuation blew the CB circuit, took van back to caravan workshop,unit was replaced free of charge,and they fitted the isolation switch under bed, and key inside gas locker,all totaly isolated,inside and out, incidentlly my van has a battery box with all three compartments in one boxwith partitions,water,battery AC hook up compartments.
------------- If everything runs smoothly then I must have done something wrong
If in Doubt Check it Out.
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