I have a Bailey Ranger . Series 5 . 460/2 . 2007 model.
Have just bought the triple pack Al-Ko stabiliser. Have had the Al-Ko towball fitted to car but might try & fit the stabiliser to the caravan myself.
Can anyone offer any good tips? Have you done this yourself? Did you have any problems?
With hitch fully extended remove the 2 horizontal bolts that hold your existing hitch. You will need 2 19mm ring spanners &/or socket. Note that rear bolt also holds front of hitch damper so slip a screwdriver in to hold it once you remove bolt & hitch. I'm guessing your new hitch has star shaped Torx head fixing bolts. You can get correct sized half inch drive Torx bit from Halfords fo a few quid.
Fit new hitch, ensuring rear bolt goes thru hitch damper. Depending on model of Alko hitch you have & diameter of damper tube you may have to use spacer provided.
Thanks Tentz.
Its says the bolts should have the 'class' stamped on them but there is nothing stamped on them. Depending on whether they are 10.9 or 8.8 class bolts will depend on what torque must be applied to tighten them.
I don't have a torque wrench but am trying to borrow one. The star shaped Torx allen tool is included in the box. The stabiliser is the Al-Ko 3004 model triple pack.
Quote: Originally posted by Tentz on 31/3/2011
Note that rear bolt also holds front of hitch damper so slip a screwdriver in to hold it once you remove bolt & hitch.
This is an easy enough job as Tentz has described above. The kit should have included a cylindrical steel drift to hold the damper in place as per Tentz description (where it's suggested using a screwdriver).
About 20 mins to fit.
The nuts on the 2 horizontal fixing bolts should be done up pretty tight, but I've never bothered to to torque them. The nuts should be the vibration proof 'nylock' type.
Thanks G7ACU.
Yes the kit does have 2 steel cylindrical bars to use depending on what width the towbar is so no need for the screwdriver.
How hard is it usually to get the old towbar off? The caravan is a 2007 model.
Quote: Originally posted by G7ACU on 31/3/2011
Quote: Originally posted by Tentz on 31/3/2011Note that rear bolt also holds front of hitch damper so slip a screwdriver in to hold it once you remove bolt & hitch.
This is an easy enough job as Tentz has described above. The kit should have included a cylindrical steel drift to hold the damper in place as per Tentz description (where it's suggested using a screwdriver).
About 20 mins to fit.
Hi Tentz.
I still dont have a torque wrench so might try that. I dont think the nuts included are the nylock type though. They look just like normal nuts.
I also have just one washer supplied, so presume that is for the round headed bolt that is only needed if the hole is a vertical one & not horizontal.
Quote: Originally posted by Tentz on 31/3/2011
The nuts on the 2 horizontal fixing bolts should be done up pretty tight, but I've never bothered to to torque them. The nuts should be the vibration proof 'nylock' type.
Hi CamperPam, I have fitted my van with the same stabiliser, I had instructions, I loosened the( bolt nearest the van that holds the damper) just enough to clear the hitch thread then tapped in the drift,untill it was clear of hitch thread,(drift pushes out old bolt) took of front bolt, lifted off hitch,(you will see drift is flush with bar) replace in reverse order, front bolt first fully in thread but do not tighten yet, tap in the rear bolt untill drift is knocked out tighten the rear bolt fully then the front. job done. (if you need the saddle spacer that gose on before you put on hitch), hope that helped.
------------- If everything runs smoothly then I must have done something wrong
If in Doubt Check it Out.
Probably a good idea to use locking nuts but not essential. To undo nuts on old hitch its good to have a 2foot long breaker bar/19mm socket on nut & ring spanner or another bar/socket on bolt.
Thanks for replying John.
I have instructions in my kit too but couldnt understand what they were talking about. Everything is becoming clear now though.
Did your old towbar come off without too much trouble? I thought maybe a squirt of WD40 might help to loosen the old nuts.
Did you use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts/nuts?
CamperPam
Quote: Originally posted by jhsw on 01/4/2011
Hi CamperPam, I have fitted my van with the same stabiliser, I had instructions, I loosened the( bolt nearest the van that holds the damper) just enough to clear the hitch thread then tapped in the drift,untill it was clear of hitch thread,(drift pushes out old bolt) took of front bolt, lifted off hitch,(you will see drift is flush with bar) replace in reverse order, front bolt first fully in thread but do not tighten yet, tap in the rear bolt untill drift is knocked out tighten the rear bolt fully then the front. job done. (if you need the saddle spacer that gose on before you put on hitch), hope that helped.
Thanks Tentz
Wonder why they didnt supply locking nuts in the kit. I might try & contact Al-Ko.
Will search out, beg or borrow some good strong sockets & spanners.
I presume the nut goes straight on the bolt with no washer in between?
CamperPam
Quote: Originally posted by Tentz on 01/4/2011
Probably a good idea to use locking nuts but not essential. To undo nuts on old hitch its good to have a 2foot long breaker bar/19mm socket on nut & ring spanner or another bar/socket on bolt.
There are normally no washers used on the 2 horizontal bolts. You can but 19mm nyloc nuts anywhere. B&Q will have them. personally I would just use nyloc nuts & not bother with a torque wrench.
If you do buy a torque wrench make sure you get a goodun' ie, from Halfords rather than Aldi. Many do keep a torque wrench to check their wheel nuts, but again, I just rely on me judgement.
Hi CamperPam, Had bit of trouble getting old one off, placed small hammer on head of bolts, them tapped the small hammer with larger one,(only did it twice each bolt, so as not to damage the bolt heads) tapped heads the bolts gently after spray with WD40,still a bit tight to come off, after bolts out, also had to tap old hitch head,from top and bottom, to brake its hold on bar,as it was very tight,cleaned bar and re fitted new hitch.
------------- If everything runs smoothly then I must have done something wrong
If in Doubt Check it Out.
Hi, CamperPam, forgot to answer your other question, No did not have torque bar at the time,tightened up as you would do with car wheel,before you would do the final tightning by foot, just used bit of pressure and weight. I will have to check my torque now got bar.
------------- If everything runs smoothly then I must have done something wrong
If in Doubt Check it Out.
Hi John
Will have WD40 at the ready!
Did you have locking nuts in your triple pack? Mine appear to be normal ones.
What did you use to clean up the bar with before fitting the new Al-Ko?
Did you use a Torque wrench?
Just changed from a motorhome to a caravan so lots to learn!
Thanks.
CamperPam
What sort of torque bar did you get? Was it expensive?
Quote: Originally posted by jhsw on 01/4/2011
Hi, CamperPam, forgot to answer your other question, No did not have torque bar at the time,tightened up as you would do with car wheel,before you would do the final tightning by foot, just used bit of pressure and weight. I will have to check my torque now got bar.
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Topic: Fitting Al-Ko 3004 stabiliser to Bailey
