Quote: Originally posted by CamperPam on 31/3/2011
Thanks G7ACU.
Yes the kit does have 2 steel cylindrical bars to use depending on what width the towbar is so no need for the screwdriver.
How hard is it usually to get the old towbar off? The caravan is a 2007 model.
Sorry, not noticed query until now.
As other guys have mentioned and detailed, an easy swap for the Alko. I didn't have any bother removing existing hitch (prefer not to use WD40 where possible).
The instructions supplied can be confusing until you do the work as they're generic for several drawbar designs.
When removing original hitch, gently tap the back bolt out with the steel pin so as the bolt comes out, the pin slips in to hold the damper in the drawbar.
You'll only need the two bolts supplied to fit the Alko hitch; single washer fits beneath front bolt head and bolts should be fitted from right (when viewed from front) with the nuts on left to allow for proper clearance for Alko lock.
Fit front bolt first then gently knock through the pin as you fit you the rear bolt to retain the damper.
Personally I didn't bother with torque as experience has shown a variance between different brands of wrench; common sence prevails sometimes and I check fittings periodically anyway. (Recent check with neighbours wrench proved them to be correct, on his wrench anyway).
You can fit nylock nuts if you like, but the nuts supplied by Alko now are a 'one-fit' type where the thread is slightly tighter when fitting and designed to be used once only (i.e. chucked out if you ever remove bolts at a later date).
PS: I also find the locking clamp provides an excellent solution to stop the van cables from dragging on the ground. I thread 'em thru the handle before locking down and this keeps them well clear without fouling the cables movement, like this ...
Thanks Paul
It is all now becoming clear. Shame you guys don't write the instructions as it would be so much easier to understand.
I think I will fit the nuts supplied by Al-Ko as I dont want to invalidate any warranty.
Havent managed to borrow a torque wrench so will tighten by hand and check the tightness frequently.
Quote: Originally posted by CamperPam on 01/4/2011
Why dont you like to use WD40?
Don't mis-understand me, it's fairly good stuff and has it's place, but in engineering I find naive folk use it indiscriminately and in the wrong environment/use, it can cause more harm than good, so I generally discourage it's use.
To be fair, if your nuts are stuck (excuse me!), it will free 'em up but use sparingly and use the applicator tube nozzley thing so it only goes where you need it to go.
Once you have removed old hitch, if tube underneath is a bit rusty, clean it up with emery cloth. Rub over with a bit of grease before fitting new hitch. I find proper penetrating oil works better than WD40 for freeing nuts.
The nuts should shift if you apply enough leverage. You can put a length of tube over a ring spanner if you have nothing else. Not really recommended, but generally does the job.
Quote: Originally posted by CamperPam on 01/4/2011
What sort of torque bar did you get? Was it expensive?
Quote: Originally posted by jhsw on 01/4/2011
Hi, CamperPam, forgot to answer your other question, No did not have torque bar at the time,tightened up as you would do with car wheel,before you would do the final tightning by foot, just used bit of pressure and weight. I will have to check my torque now got bar.
Hi CamperPam, have'nt looked at name on torque bar, borrowed it from sons tools(makes a change).as most of my tools are in his box. did clean up hitch bar and grease before fitting new one agree with Tentz with the WD40,especially if its near some type of plastics, and only use small amounts of it at any one time,tend to use it on things that are going to be discarded, small tin lasts me 1 to 2year. well you will now be going to make start on the stabiliser,after all the info,you will find it much easier than you thought, Good luck.
------------- If everything runs smoothly then I must have done something wrong
If in Doubt Check it Out.
Had a little help knocking the back pin in to remove the old bolt. That was the hardest bit. Took about an hour in all, that included fitting the new gaiter. Feeling very proud
Thank you so much to Tentz, Paul and John for all your help & suggestions.
Towing course now booked so all set for caravanning. Should I get some 'L' plates do you think?
Amazing family weekend with old steam engines, classic car displays, market stalls, and full catering and bar. And camping on site - Save £25 by booking in advance.
Topic: Fitting Al-Ko 3004 stabiliser to Bailey
