I've just had the 12v [ Grey ] connector added to the car and connected it to the 'van. The volt indicator on the panel fig 1. went up and then fell back to 0. I've examined the fuses and 'wiggled' the car grey plug but it hasn't moved except when I turn the car off and then restart, it goes up...then back down. I have checked the fuses especially #5 which seem to be the main fuse Fig 2.
I'm at a bit of a loss and we go away for our first outing on Friday. I would appreciate any help at all.
it may be normal.. when the caravan sense the increased car voltage it disconnects the cars input from the normal van electrics.. it switches to charging and fridge only i think.. this probably dosnt show on the panel voltage read out..
my older avondale van dosnt work this way but i think newer ones do..
I asked because with some modern vehicles the electrics are dedicated with a can-bus system whereby the information is relayed in milli-seconds to all the components on the car so any additional relays are not always compatible. My car is a 2008 model and when I had the 12N & 12S sockets fitted I had numerous problems with the grey socket to which the RAC were called out twice. I eventually had to have the 12N & 12S system removed and replaced with a 13 pin dedicated wiring loom which the problems were completely eliminated afterwards. Just a thought that this could be the possible cause as the relays are not dedicated to the car's electrical system thus making the loss of electrical current.
Have you tried switching any of the other caravan switches at all? My 12 volt lights won't operate unless I flick the 'lights' switch and my radio/CD player won't operate unless I flick the 'auxiliary' switch. On mine there is also a rocker switch that states 'CAR/VAN' which has to be switched over to 'CAR' to get a reading from the towcar electrics. If it's flicked to 'VAN' the reading is solely from the onboard leisure battery.
Looking at picture No. 2 (Fuse/Relay Module) it looks like the master switch is switched off. Have you tried switching that on as the fuses may look okay but won't function if there's no 12 volt electrical current activated.
In our previous vans we had an Aux switch, but I cant find one on this van, nor a switch that indicated the car is the primary source or power. I'll try all the switches as you suggest.
my older type system has a three position switch in the van.. car battery.. van battery or off which is nether.. my van has a permanent live from the car to the car battery side of the panel..
my older car has a voltage sensitive relay (fitted by me) which connects up to the vans charger and fridge when it detects the car engine is running.. it does this no matter where the van switch is.. that is the old fashioned way..
newer vans are not connected to the car electrics if the car engine is running.. something called a habitation relay switches the vans electrics off or switches over to just charger and fridge.. the habitation relay assumes that when the car engine is running the vans electrics are not needed.. the theory is the vans electrics could confuse the cars computer brain.. there are other reason which i wont go into..
this is the modern way.. it is a bit complex and dosnt entirely make sense.. :)
If all fails then obtain a multi-meter and check the output of the 12S socket to see if you have a live feed coming from the towcar. The two pins you need to test are pin 3 (earth) and pin 4 (battery positive) and see what reading you get as it may not be constant but fluctuating which if it is more than likely proves my initial theory regarding the non dedicated wiring loom. As a guide, a diagram of the 12S socket connections can be found in the link below.
My 2003 bailey interior lights will not operate when connected to the car with the ignition on. It just powers the fridge and charges battery with the ignition on..
Quote: Originally posted by ichiefeet on 30/9/2014Crikey. That gery one was just fitted this morning.
Maybe it was but it doesn't prove that it's compatible if your car has a can-bus relay technology. It's more reason as to why you need to check it out and if it proves that the feed is not constant you can take the vehicle back to where you had the grey socket fitted along with your receipt and explain your dilemma.
It's not the first time that this subject has cropped up on this forum but you have to rule out the possible cause before tracing the fault with the caravan's 12 volt circuit.
OK. Thank you for the very helpful advice and info. I wouldn't know where to begin so I have a mobile caravan engineer coming on Thursday. He's actually coming to do a brake service so I'll ask if he can shed any light on the issue.
The service engineer came today and serviced the brakes/gas fire and also had a look at the 12v side. He determined that the Grey plug and cable that attaches to the car is faulty. He's going to order a new one for us and he'll change it in a week or two. He's very busy.
So all things considered £50 well spent. He also checked out the gas system and gave us a certificate of compliance for 2014. We can go off tomorrow with a clear head and not worry. Thank you all for the help and sound advice.
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