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Subject Topic: Knocking when towing Post Reply Post New Topic
16/10/2020 at 9:51pm
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Is it normal that when you go over uneven road you get a knocking on the tow bar. When pulling in the flat road or motorway it sounds fine just village roads the worse


via mobile 16/10/2020 at 9:56pm
 Location: NE Scotland
 Outfit: Bailey Phoenix + CRV
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Check your gas strut for the over run brakes. Renew if necessary.

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playing at tinkies


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via mobile 17/10/2020 at 8:07am
 Location: n.yorks
 Outfit:  Audi Q5 lunar Clubm
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Could be the jockey wheel not high enough if it's only on bumpy roads

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alan


17/10/2020 at 8:17am
 Location: Hampshire
 Outfit: Hymer Nova S
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No it is not normal nor is it "right".

Check the securing bolts holding the tow bar to the various chassis points.
Is it a "fixed" towball, a detachable or a type that moves into place?
The latter two can have a trace of clearance allowing movement and so cluncking, but this should still be minimal.

Edit: I am assuming the caravan is fitted with a friction hitch like the Alko AKS or Winterhoff. If not and it is a basic hitch with metal to metal working surfaces the freedom in these can lead to some knocking but unlike the friction type these can and should be used with a little grease that mitigates it a bit, not used dry.






Post last edited on 17/10/2020 09:21:22


17/10/2020 at 8:40am
 Location: Bath
 Outfit: Bailey Palermo & Kampa Brean
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I would work out what the nocking is.

another idea for you...have you checked your noseweight? For example I have a trailer that if i load it too far back then the trailer is effectivly bouncing on the ball, so has a knocking noise as i drive over the lumps in the road.
Not good by any means especially with a caravan!


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17/10/2020 at 11:39am
 Location: North Lincolnshire
 Outfit: Stelvio & Xplore 495
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I get a 'clunking' noise from our Winterhoff hitch when travelling on uneven surfaces caused by the rotational play on the hitch head. Try rotating your hitch head manually to see if this recreates the sound. I had this checked on a recent service and was told it was quite normal, although it seems to have become more noticeable recently (van is now 10 years old). On flat surfaces it is silent.

As suggested above I also checked for play in my detachable tow bar (TowTrust) which is now 7 years old and has towed thousands of miles, but there was not the slightest movement.


17/10/2020 at 12:49pm
 Location: Lichfield
 Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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This may sound daft but an absolutely true story. I had this problem with knocking with my first caravan which only happened on vertical bounce but was fine on the horizontal pivot and being a novice at that time 16 years ago I thought none the wiser. It wasn't until we went on a rally over a year later that we had to get towed off the field due to constant rain over the weekend and one of the other ralliers pointed out that the hitch had the wrong size sleeves fitted which was allowing the rocking movement. The dealer had installed the used stabiliser prior to our collection but because it was second hand, obviously the brass sleeves were the wrong size so just bodged it up to save money. If you buy a new stabiliser it usually comes as a kit complete with 3 sets of sleeves. Our caravan was a 1992 model which the damper rods at that time were manufactured to 48mm. whereas later caravans were 50mm. so the brass sleeves were obviously thinner which the dealer used. They hitched us up as well so it wouldn't be detected to which we then departed and learned a valid lesson never to trust a dealer. I did however manage to get the correct size brass sleeves for a fiver from a caravan accessory shop, did some research regarding how to do the job and interchanged the thinner sleeves for the thicker ones myself. Job done and the knocking was eliminated for good but it's worth checking out just in case the same applies with your van as you just don't know what clowns have been involved previously just save a few quid.


17/10/2020 at 12:59pm
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Its not just wrong hitches being fit. My mate had a towbar fitted when he bought his new Landrover (posh one - i forget the model). After TWO years, when buying a new caravan, the actual dealer pointed out he had the wrong ball fitted! It could have popped off anytime previously. Just shows not all 'experts' are expert.


17/10/2020 at 5:41pm
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Guess what guys I checked the tow bar if I push it down itís fine but if I lift it up it moves upwards. The bolts cannot be tight. Had green flag out got to be recovered caravan on the back of a lorry to go home. Kia fitted tow bar 18 months ago. Difficult to say if this has got worse of was always like it. Good job I spotted it


17/10/2020 at 7:21pm
 Location: Lichfield
 Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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I would say that you have finally detected the root cause of the knocking by pulling up and down of the towball. When towing a caravan (not a low trailer) the wind pushes the front which in effect lifts the hitch which in your case would cause the loose towball to retract up and down. That's why it's important to achieve the correct noseweight by the use of a gauge because too light and it can cause some instability and in severe cases lead to snaking. Glad you found the problem anyway and once the towball has been tightened it should be solid and eliminate the knocking sound you have experienced.


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via mobile 17/10/2020 at 7:47pm
 Location: NE Scotland
 Outfit: Bailey Phoenix + CRV
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JTQU called it right. Well done.
And good to get the feedback. We all learn as we go.

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playing at tinkies


17/10/2020 at 8:16pm
 Location: Lichfield
 Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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Quote: Originally posted by oxter on 17/10/2020
JTQU called it right. Well done.
And good to get the feedback. We all learn as we go.




Yes, definitely good to get the feedback and well done to JTQU as well for their input. Spot on!


17/10/2020 at 9:53pm
 Location: North Lincolnshire
 Outfit: Stelvio & Xplore 495
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There have been several past reports of Kia tow bars slipping, particularly on the Sorento. I believe they were supplied by Witter and the problems occurred because there were only two bolts on either end of the crossmember and these became loose over time. Witter upgraded the bolts to increase the torque.



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