I have just returned from a few nights away on 16amp hookup with no issues during the stay. Upon leaving disconnected mains supply and tried to use motor mover on elddis 866 (2018), which worked for about 1 second then nothing. I tried a couple of times but gave up and moved the car into position myself, all hooked up and lights checked so drove home.
Pulled up on the drive, still nothing happening with motor mover to get van into final position. Plugged van into 13amp mains and mover works but too low power to move the twin axle van on the pretty much flat drive.
Now I have realised that when disconnected from mains, when I turn the master switch on there is nothing happening at the control panel, dead, so I assume I have an issue with either the battery charger or the battery itself?
Done a quick google, used a multimeter on the battery (still connected to van but no mains power supply switched on), reading of 13.23, which I think suggests the battery is ok? Then I turn the mains supply back on and check and I get 13.73, which I think suggests the battery charger is working ok?
Van had just been in for service and new PCB before we came away, I used the mover to turn the van round on the drive 1 week ago which takes about 20 mins due to the number of turns required so it was holding a decent amount of charge back then. No idea what to check next, any guidance would be greatly appreciated! I suspect the battery is the original, I certainly haven't replaced it in the 3 years I have owned the van.
its possible for a battery to lose its capacity.. read the correct voltage be fully charged but have bugger all in it.. in other words your battery needs replacing.. your charger is okay..
trog
ps.. just to add this is how batteries wear out.. over time your 100 amp battery becomes a 10 amp battery.. when they reach 80% of the original capacity they should be considered worn out.. having said that mostly unless in critical situations they get taken well below that..
The advice is not to operate the mover whilst plugged into the mains supply as it can damage the motor mover circuit board. That's why they fit the mover isolation key directly beneath the mains socket to prevent the operator from using both power sources simultaneously. If this has been done previously it may not be the battery at fault but a defective mover circuit board or both. That's why it pays to read the instructions prior to use as it can sometimes be a costly mistake if you don't.
Quote: Originally posted by tango55 on 29/3/2024
The advice is not to operate the mover whilst plugged into the mains supply as it can damage the motor mover circuit board. That's why they fit the mover isolation key directly beneath the mains socket to prevent the operator from using both power sources simultaneously.
Not all big red keys are fitted beside or close to the mains socket.
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Quote: Originally posted by blueexpo97 on 30/3/2024
Quote: Originally posted by tango55 on 29/3/2024
The advice is not to operate the mover whilst plugged into the mains supply as it can damage the motor mover circuit board. That's why they fit the mover isolation key directly beneath the mains socket to prevent the operator from using both power sources simultaneously.
Not all big red keys are fitted beside or close to the mains socket.
True enough, but the MM instruction is still not to use when connected to EHU! The placement of the master switch by EHU is done deliberately to prevent using both at the same time! I appreciate some people have access issues when parking and MM switch needs to be elsewhere, but it's done with associated risks and really should be clearly labelled as such!
Probably a combination of the extra high on charge voltage being a risk to MM circuitry, and the extremely high motor current demand being a risk to the 12v charger, depending on system wiring, also risk of blowing 20A main battery fuse if current drawn anywhere other than direct from the (healthy) battery (up to 80A load on my MM!)!
With OPs problem, sounds typical dead battery as first issue, then having run MM with EHU connected, I suspect the main 20A inline battery fuse may have blown or the charger/12v supply may have been damaged. Some systems require a (functional) battery to be fitted before the charger/12v supply will function, so that's a possibility.
Like all fault finding, you have to be systematic and eliminate the obvious and easily tested items first. Most battery suppliers should be able to do a proper battery condition test (voltage readings alone are of very limited value!), then the inline 20A battery fuse needs checking, if both good (or new battery in place) then check that the charger/12v supply is correctly functional. If any doubt about the charger, I wouldn't leave it connected to a good battery, risk of 'cooking' the battery with overcharge, or draining it until unrecoverably dead! Poor/corroded terminations on battery or MM cabling can give similar symptoms to a dead battery.
Sounds to me like you may have more than one problem there. If you have 13.2 volts at the battery but nothing at the control panel, that suggests to me that you have a break in the main feed from the battery to the control panel, possibly a blown fuse. Even a nearly knackered battery showing 13.2 volts would show something at the control panel. It certainly sounds like the charger is working though if the voltage rises when you switch the mains on.
The motor mover could easily have a fault in itself or in its control box.
I would start by checking the main battery fuse, assuming your caravan has one which I would imagine it has. These are often inline fuses quite close to the battery. The motor mover circuit usually bypasses the battery fuse.
Just had another thought, I suppose you have checked that the battery terminal clamps aren't corroded?
If the mover is a Powrtouch? phone them and they'll run you through the list of checks, and if its within the 5 years warranty period they'll sort any mover problems
If i leave mine in storage i disconnect the positive battery lead,ive left it a month and its still fully charged, its got quick release leads so its only a couple of seconds to reconnect
Hi.
Back off hol's. Put caravan in storage 4 weeks ago. Uncoupled live(red) lead and left .
Went back today re-coupled red lead and battery read almost fully charged.
Is this normal?
Cheers
Len
Sounds to me like the batteries or battery connection in the controller, as everything else seems to check out. Don’t know your exact setup, but I remember the AA cell seating springs weren’t making a good connection on mine, and gave us issues.
This could still be a surface charge so it would be useful to do what was suggested earlier on and check it while you activate the mover, alternately take it to halfords etc and they'll check it out, oh and buy a battery for the handset while there.
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but I remember the AA cell seating springs weren’t making a good connection on mine,
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EH----
ah-- just re-read your post you mean the double A batteries in the remote
doh
No G. We have a Stirling Eccles, 2 berth and our last battery only lasted about 13 months so I am keeping my on this one. It is nice to know battery is OK.
Thanks for replies and we will change battery on mover remote. Who would have thought about remote batteries?lol.
Cheers
Len
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Topic: Leisure battery issue
via mobile 06/8/2024 at 6:17pm
