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We were at first not keen on the idea of camping around Vallon Pont d'Arc, with its multitudes of crowded campsites and canoe-hire businesses, and teeming with holidaymakers. Just a few kilometers downstream of Vallon, however, is an altogether otherworldly place, and it feels a lot more like the depths of rural France with trails through forests and over high country, charming old villages, basic country food and a sense of profound isolation.
Nestled among all this, on a wooded plateau high above the southern bank of the Ardèche Gorge, is Camping Mille Etoiles. It is about 4km off the main road which passes through the nearest village of Labastide de Virac, but the only road noise we heard came from the occasional motorcycle gunning along the gorge road about 2km away on the opposite bank. With temperatures nudging 40˚C in early August we were thankful of a campsite which offered plenty of shade, nestled in the scrubby garrigue of (mostly) evergreen Ardèche oaks.
For a very reasonable outlay, we ended up in a site with all the facilities we would would need without any frippery: a bar and restaurant offering good fare with reasonable prices, an office where basic provisions can be bought and fresh bread delivered daily, a dedicated wood/charcoal barbecue area next to the restaurant (gas BBQs only on camping pitches), plenty of space for kids to play (cars are not allowed on site except to load and unload), bikes and (oddly enough) donkeys available for hire, and sufficient loos/showers/sinks/wash-up facilities/washing machine/electric hook-up etc etc.
There is no pool. It is not needed. At the northern end of the camp site is the cliff edge of the Gorge (some stunning views) around 250 metres above the Ardèche river, with direct access to it via a sometimes steep 25-minute scramble (with small children). The rewards are a quarter-mile stretch of crystal water, slow-flowing, some shallows, deeper pools to indulge in some rock-diving, ample space with some shade to 'beach', and gorgeous views of the canyons in both directions. You have to suffer the twice-daily onslaught of canoe-and-kayak rush-hour, but can seek solace that you're in far better shape than those poor dehydrated paddlers in their boats sweating under their life-jackets. And the peace and quiet when they have passed is all the more sweet.
Yes, there's little grass and the ground is firm, so rock pegs are a sensible choice. But pitches are mostly level and there is a healthy mix of tents, campervans and hikers on the GR4 just passing through. I'm told that London to Avignon is less than six hours on the Eurostar, so you could always hire a car in Avignon which is only an hour or so away, and rent one of the comfy-looking yurts or safari lodges.
So bring a hammock or two, a good read, listen to the cicadas, try to get a glimpse of a wild boar or coypu snuffling about the brush at night beyond the campsite fence. And relax.
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Common Questions
Is Camping Mille Etoiles child friendly? YES, it accepts children & has a playground View all facilities
Where is the nearest shop to Camping Mille Etoiles? There is a shop on site View all facilities
A day of all things motorhome and campervan. The show is held both in the main indoor arena and across the grounds. Catering, hot drinks and food options are available. Easy access to the site and free parking included. Win one of five pairs of day tickets
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